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03-31-2012, 08:02 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brick Nj
Posts: 91
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engine building idea for hp
i firgured this would help anyone trying to get the most out of the old 350 or even if they do what i did and swap in a 350
ok so say you got a big budget or if your like me not so big
so the test/base motor you got is a gm crate motor 350/290hp as your starting point and you wanna go with some big hp or maybe just bigger then what this motor puts out
also you can through in any ideas about transmission to bolt up to you motor ideas and gear ratios ideas
this post is to help anyone out with there old iron block 350 that really dont know how to build a motor
thank you for your time and your opinions if you think im leaving something out feel free to add on.
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03-31-2012, 08:47 PM
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#2
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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What?
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03-31-2012, 10:10 PM
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#3
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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04-01-2012, 12:14 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Arm pit of the world... NJ
Posts: 2,676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by belowfire
if you think im leaving something out feel free to add on.
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Mostly punctuation and proper word usage, which makes it very hard to read and understand!
__________________
John
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04-01-2012, 01:43 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Stillwater
Posts: 822
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Well I don't understand what you are asking but I'll go first.
My motor was free. It was a 5.7 vortec with 275,000 miles from a 1997 Suburban. I started with sending the heads to the machine shop to get tanked, get a valve job, springs/retainers/locks and screw in studs. Parts were $300, I assume labor is going to run me around $400-500 when I get them back. Now we are at $700-800, lets call it $750.
I am running the 276HR by Comp Cams which cost $300. I lucked out, my lifters and cylinder walls are in great shape. My converter should stall between 2,000-2,500 and cost me $350.
My block is going to be tanked, get new cam bearings and plugs which will cost $140 + about $30 in parts. My crank will be polished/turned for $150.
My rockers are $200. My pushrods are about $100. My rings (after file fitting are $200). My intake is $180. My main/rod bearings are about $50.
I already had the carb and headers. I cleaned up the pistons, rods and re-used anything salvageable.
The build should be $2,400 not including my gaskets.
Once again, I lucked out quiet a bit being able to reuse my pistons, not have to rebalance the bottom end, have anything done to the cylinder walls (I was able to hone it myself) and getting the motor for free. I already have a pump capable of flowing enough fuel for the nitrous. I already had my ignition too.
We are estimating about 330hp/400 ft lbs all before 5,500 RPM. On top of all that it's getting a 100 shot through Holley's (NOS) Sniper System ($400 + $400 in necessary accessories).
All said and done, $3,300-3,500 will make 430ish horses and approximately 550 ft lbs... plenty to put a 2,900lb vehicle very deep into the 12's (high 11's) and still keep great street manners!
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow
...its cool to like diesels, cause that and pretending to be country is like, hip nowadays!!
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Last edited by zraffz; 04-01-2012 at 01:44 AM.
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04-01-2012, 10:44 AM
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#6
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brick Nj
Posts: 91
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Sorry if I made this hard to understand, but zraft is right on track he basically explained what I was looking for.
Once again im sorry if i made this hard to understand and for any impropee grammer
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04-01-2012, 02:17 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jackson, NJ
Posts: 1,723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zraffz
Well I don't understand what you are asking but I'll go first.
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__________________
1983 camaro- Scrap
1988 camaro- Also scrap
'05 Silverado- You guessed it, scrap
1988 TRX 250R- Ported w/ high compression on 110 octane- Out 60' your LT1
Jersey Shore Street Car Takeover (JSSCT) Founder
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey Mike
Seven.
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04-01-2012, 08:59 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Stillwater
Posts: 822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wretched73
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Just going out on a limb cause I kinda figured that's what he was looking for
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow
...its cool to like diesels, cause that and pretending to be country is like, hip nowadays!!
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04-02-2012, 08:38 AM
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#9
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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For what it's worth, here's my combo:
Stock '74 350 short block (came with car, ran a leakdown test and did some bore checking and it came out great, turned out to be a fresh rebuild, could even see some honing marks)
Milodon oil pump and pickup - $50
L31 Vortecs with Manley valves, rockers and LT4 valvesprings - $300
Felpro 1094's $45
XE268 cam - $190
Eddy 2116- $75
Comp CM pushrods (not necessary but mine were f'd)- $110
Holley 650DP - came with car
Timing set - $50
Gasket set - $43
Vortec gasket set- $22
ARP intake bolts- $19
So add in around $300 for incidentals (hoses, clamps, oil, filter, coolant, fuel, bolts, fresh water pump, plugs, etc) and that drops me at around $1200.
Keep in mind that zraffz's setup is a roller cam engine and mine is a flat tappet.
My engine was originally an 8.2:1 smogger with 76cc heads, and when I put the Vortecs on I picked a thinner head gasket to bump the compression up. When all is said and done it should be a 9.5:1-9.7:1 engine now, depending on the actual cc of the chambers.
I had originally picked an XE274 flat tappet cam but backed it off as I don't really think I have the compression for it. So I went with the XE268 which performed better in my setup (on paper) all the way to 5000. The engine runs very strong, and according to Comp and similar builds it should be 375hp/420 lb-ft (not that I really even care).
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04-02-2012, 06:09 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Posts: 777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zraffz
Well I don't understand what you are asking but I'll go first.
My motor was free. It was a 5.7 vortec with 275,000 miles from a 1997 Suburban. I started with sending the heads to the machine shop to get tanked, get a valve job, springs/retainers/locks and screw in studs. Parts were $300, I assume labor is going to run me around $400-500 when I get them back. Now we are at $700-800, lets call it $750.
I am running the 276HR by Comp Cams which cost $300. I lucked out, my lifters and cylinder walls are in great shape. My converter should stall between 2,000-2,500 and cost me $350.
My block is going to be tanked, get new cam bearings and plugs which will cost $140 + about $30 in parts. My crank will be polished/turned for $150.
My rockers are $200. My pushrods are about $100. My rings (after file fitting are $200). My intake is $180. My main/rod bearings are about $50.
I already had the carb and headers. I cleaned up the pistons, rods and re-used anything salvageable.
The build should be $2,400 not including my gaskets.
Once again, I lucked out quiet a bit being able to reuse my pistons, not have to rebalance the bottom end, have anything done to the cylinder walls (I was able to hone it myself) and getting the motor for free. I already have a pump capable of flowing enough fuel for the nitrous. I already had my ignition too.
We are estimating about 330hp/400 ft lbs all before 5,500 RPM. On top of all that it's getting a 100 shot through Holley's (NOS) Sniper System ($400 + $400 in necessary accessories).
All said and done, $3,300-3,500 will make 430ish horses and approximately 550 ft lbs... plenty to put a 2,900lb vehicle very deep into the 12's (high 11's) and still keep great street manners!
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Who are you using for the machine work? And if you don't mind my asking, where did you get a free vortec motor? lol. If I get lucky at the yard I may score one for 80 bucks, but god knows what the condition of it will be. I may start with something similar to your setup sans the NOS. Eventually building up to somewhere in the 425-450 range NA. Anything beyond that will be pointless on the street. I know you're close to me which is why I'm asking about the machining.
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04-02-2012, 07:31 PM
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#11
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Stillwater
Posts: 822
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I am using Bob's Machining in Lafayette, it's right across the road from the DPW garage (front of the building says Lafayette Auto Parts). He's an older guy with 37 years of experience. Prices are within reason and he's only 25 minutes from my house. I only have good things to say about him, he's old school and very knowledgeable with the small block chevys. He just finished putting together my brother's 383 short block.
Bob will NOT balance a rotating assembly or turn a crank. He sends it all to NY to be done. Turn around time is usually two weeks on that kind of stuff.
My Vortec motor came out of a vehicle at my house lol. It sat in the truck for 2 years without running; can't believe between the high mileage and period it sat for how good of a shape it's in.
All I'm doing is a overhaul of rings, bearings, re-hone, clean up heads and a mild cam. Estimated horsepower was very conservative.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow
...its cool to like diesels, cause that and pretending to be country is like, hip nowadays!!
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04-02-2012, 07:54 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Posts: 777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zraffz
I am using Bob's Machining in Lafayette, it's right across the road from the DPW garage (front of the building says Lafayette Auto Parts). He's an older guy with 37 years of experience. Prices are within reason and he's only 25 minutes from my house. I only have good things to say about him, he's old school and very knowledgeable with the small block chevys. He just finished putting together my brother's 383 short block.
Bob will NOT balance a rotating assembly or turn a crank. He sends it all to NY to be done. Turn around time is usually two weeks on that kind of stuff.
My Vortec motor came out of a vehicle at my house lol. It sat in the truck for 2 years without running; can't believe between the high mileage and period it sat for how good of a shape it's in.
All I'm doing is a overhaul of rings, bearings, re-hone, clean up heads and a mild cam. Estimated horsepower was very conservative.
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I'm sure the estimate was conservative. I don't know whether I'll stroke the motor off the bat or drop it in and run the motor as is after converting to a carb and headers, and upgrade it over winter months later on. It will likely all depend on the condition of the engine I get.
I know the place you're talking about. Perhaps I'll have a serious chat with the guy after I get the engine. I was there once before I believe. I agree you got lucky on the motor. Usually with that kind of mileage there is more wear. I'll send you a PM with what I had in mind, but in all its very similar.
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04-02-2012, 11:16 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Manahawkin New Jersey
Posts: 608
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the one thing i have learned about these cars/ motors is if you add a few bolt on's ie. headers, intake, a good tune, a good and i stress a good exhaust system.... (damn mustang guys think they can just slap on any cat back system, and they think their car is gods gift to the pony cars) a good set of gears and the car will be an entirely different car. though right there you have just spent almost 3 grand, you just have to let / make these motor breath. and also as always its all about how deep you want reach into your pockets, unfortunately more money = more hp.
I have aready spent well over 30 grand in total on my 97 Z project which is near complete and look what im doing now, im looking to convert my 2002 silver ss to a lt1 style front and im looking at putting a 500 ci billet aluminum ls block into it ($10,500 for the block alone) its a sickness
to list what have done to my 97' Z
complete lt1 396 stroker long block , forged pistons, forged crank, afr heads, comp roller bearing cam (11 grand)
hooker headers hooker and y pipe (1 grand)
ported and polished intake with 58 mm tb (near 600)
polished slp cold air intake (300)
tune (500)
12 bolt moser rear w/ 4.10 gears (3 grand)
stage 3 overhauled t56 trans (2 grand)
topgun 4' drive shaft (700)
bmr suspension: springs, chrome molly adj. pan hard bar, chrome molly adj torque arm, chrome molly adj. control arms, front and rear sway bars, sub frame connectors, strut brace bar, k-member (close to 4 grand)
48 pound injectors (400)
race tronix fuel system (200)
Last edited by bigz28man; 04-02-2012 at 11:35 PM.
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