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Old 04-08-2011, 12:19 PM   #1
Blacdout96
 
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Firming the steering response for rack n' pinion

Do we have an ability to adjust the firmness of our rack and pinion systems. If so, anybody got a go-to guide for that? I know you can adjust play in the steering, but I want it to be firmer when I turn since I want a more precise turning feeling, and so the damn road stops rippingthe steering wheel from my hands The rack I have is good now, no play btw.
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Uh yeah, after they surprized buttsecks us at Pearl Harbor?

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Old 04-08-2011, 01:32 PM   #2
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You still have the rag joint?
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Old 04-08-2011, 01:42 PM   #3
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Yeah, it's seen a better 160K miles. I want to switch to a LS1 steering rack, and a V8 one at that ( 14.4 ratio) rather then spend 40 bcks on an aluminum puck.
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Uh yeah, after they surprized buttsecks us at Pearl Harbor?
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Old 04-08-2011, 05:06 PM   #4
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Yeah if you do the ls1 rack and intermediate shaft, should feel a little better.
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:58 PM   #5
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assuming your current rack is tight a tighter ratio rack will not help this: "damn road stops ripping the steering wheel from my hands" http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=47

what are your alignment settings? how are all your front end parts? do you know how to check for ball joint play? tie rod play?
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Old 04-08-2011, 07:19 PM   #6
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Mr.NAPA better know how to do that...
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen View Post
assuming your current rack is tight a tighter ratio rack will not help this: "damn road stops ripping the steering wheel from my hands" http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=47

what are your alignment settings? how are all your front end parts? do you know how to check for ball joint play? tie rod play?
Well......... I dropped it 1" so the front has some camber,and I got 9.5's in the front lol, pretty sure that may be the problem. Really it only happens when there's a serious crown in the road, or deep ruts from trucks.

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Mr.NAPA better know how to do that...
Not really, lately they've been training us to wear large Elvis- like racing suits while playing a piano and singing na na na napa know how.....apparently that has everything to do with selling auto parts, and our ability to be competent in our job
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Uh yeah, after they surprized buttsecks us at Pearl Harbor?
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacdout96 View Post
Well......... I dropped it 1" so the front has some camber,and I got 9.5's in the front lol, pretty sure that may be the problem. Really it only happens when there's a serious crown in the road, or deep ruts from trucks.
caster & toe are more important for what you are talking about.

i'd go through that whole chassis with a fine tooth comb before going to all that trouble & expense for a different rack.
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:32 PM   #9
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a reman rack is a few hundred bucks and bolts right in and they use ls1 style
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:32 PM   #10
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Well when I go to upgrade the brakes I'm having new lower ball joints pressed in at my work, I already replaced the uppers and outer tie rods.
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Uh yeah, after they surprized buttsecks us at Pearl Harbor?
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:33 PM   #11
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a reman rack is a few hundred bucks and bolts right in and they use ls1 style
I heard mixed reviews about using the LT1 style coupler shaft, some have used it without a hitch, others had to use the LS1.
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Uh yeah, after they surprized buttsecks us at Pearl Harbor?
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:57 PM   #12
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I was more referencing that the rack itself needs no modification and the lines fit. I would use the ls1 intermediate shaft but I believe transmaro93 used his stock one no problem. He's also the 97 bastard year so who knows
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Old 04-08-2011, 10:08 PM   #13
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lol, i was thinking maybe buy bluesharks... fe2 and i believe the bolt locations are the same, but the angle at which the shaft connects is at a different angle.
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Uh yeah, after they surprized buttsecks us at Pearl Harbor?

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Old 04-08-2011, 10:11 PM   #14
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duit
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Old 04-09-2011, 01:42 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacdout96 View Post
Well......... I dropped it 1" so the front has some camber,and I got 9.5's in the front lol, pretty sure that may be the problem. Really it only happens when there's a serious crown in the road, or deep ruts from trucks.



Not really, lately they've been training us to wear large Elvis- like racing suits while playing a piano and singing na na na napa know how.....apparently that has everything to do with selling auto parts, and our ability to be competent in our job
*facepalm* that's why you guys are losing to us. You need a full on company cheer, complete with mission statement.

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Well when I go to upgrade the brakes I'm having new lower ball joints pressed in at my work, I already replaced the uppers and outer tie rods.
pressing ball joints shouldn't need a press, unless 4th gens are just ridiculous...oh wait, they are, so maybe.
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Old 04-09-2011, 08:22 AM   #16
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*facepalm* that's why you guys are losing to us. You need a full on company cheer, complete with mission statement.
Maybe so, but were both losing to Advance Auto, you see how fast those ****ers run in the desert with a muffler? I can't compete with that! And they practically corner the battery changing while car falling from sky market stupid us totally overlooked that.
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Old 04-09-2011, 03:24 PM   #17
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I'm going to have to mirror Scott on this one, and emphasize alignment. My alignment was fresh from the now defunct TTP, but my car felt sloppy. I blamed it on old bushings. I finally manned up, and went to an alignment shop in Central Jersey, and man was I shocked at the results. He didn't really add any more camber, but he corrected the caster and toe which were apparently the source of my instability.

Weird things were corrected in the process. My car is now super stable at high speeds, the 80mph shake is gone, and my car now prints money. Whether or not that is what is wrong with your car, I don't know, but perhaps looking into your alignment specs could save you a ton of money in a new rack and other stuff.
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Old 04-09-2011, 03:38 PM   #18
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Yeah I didn't want to get an alignment until everything was changed, that's on my list of things to do after the brakes are upgraded.....it'll be only the second time hands other then mine were used to work on it since I bought it ( besides a helping hand when the engine was dropped in, or when I bled brakes, but really it's been me and me alone to touch it.)
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Uh yeah, after they surprized buttsecks us at Pearl Harbor?
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Old 04-09-2011, 04:02 PM   #19
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Are you sure you can betray your car like that? Sounds like a big step
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Except Jersey mike, great kid, but the way he looks at me makes me feel like im in danger
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Old 04-09-2011, 04:43 PM   #20
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We'll just have to keep it between you and me....and about 3000 members
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Uh yeah, after they surprized buttsecks us at Pearl Harbor?
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:36 PM   #21
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Yeah caster can play alot in stability but i didnt think caster was adjustable on our cars. I have aligned my car a few times since i have had it. First time putting some negative camber was just recently. But never bothered to look at caster.

I put 30" above spec and actually feels a little bit more solid on turns. Just not sure how it will do on wear.

I honestly wouldnt trust most shops doing an alignment on my car since i know all the ways you can cheat it.
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