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Old 04-05-2010, 07:51 AM   #1
Mark42
 
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Q about DRL's

I parked in front of a donut shop this morning, and could see the drl's in the store glass. Seeing as I just replaced them as a pair this weekend (to get the same color amber) I was checking them out to be sure they looked right.

After I come out from the store, start the car, I see the DRL's are not on. WTF? Turn the car off, then just to ignition, and still no DRL. Turn signals work, parking lights work, fog lights, brake lights all are working, but no DRL.

I go to leave, and when I take off the parking brake, the DRL's come on. Stop and put the parking brake on again, but the DRL's stay on. Then turn off the ignition, put parking brake on, start car, and NO DRLS! As soon as the parking brake is taken off, the DRL's come on.

Ever notice that with your car? Just thought it was a weird setup.

Will check the wire diagram and see if the parking brake switch is tied into the DRL circuit.
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Last edited by Mark42; 04-05-2010 at 07:52 AM.
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:22 AM   #2
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Quote:
The Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) system consists of a DRL Module and an Ambient Light Sensor. During daylight hours, the DRL Module turns "ON" the Front Turn Signal Lights if 1.) Ignition is "ON," 2.) The Headlights are "OFF" and 3.) If the Park Brake is "OFF." As darkness approaches, the DRL Module will turn "OFF" the Front Turn Signal Lights and turn "ON" the Park Lights and Headlights.

The DRL Module determines daylight or night-time hours by receiving voltage from the Ambient Light Sensor. As darkness approaches the Ambient Light Sensor will change resistance and thus change the voltage received by the DRL Module. The Control Logic within the DRL Module receives its voltage from the TURN B-U Fuse 2 and the GAGES Fuse 9. The GAGES Fuse also supplies voltage to the relays within the DRL Module and supplies voltage to the Front Turn Signal bulbs during DRL operation through the Left and Right DRL Relays within the DRL Module. The Headlamp Switch supplies voltage for the Headlamps, through the Headlamp Relay contacts within the DRL Module, during night-time hours. The TAIL LTS Fuse supplies voltage to the Park Lights during night-time hours. During DRL operation, the Turn Signals and Hazard Flasher will operate normally. The Park Lamps and/or the Headlamps may be operated manually at any time by using the Headlamp Switch.

The DRL Module will not operate if the system voltage is less than 9 volts or greater than 18 volts . When the Park Lamps/Headlamps are turned "OFF," and the Ambient Light Sensor indicates a night condition, the Park Lamps will illuminate when the Ignition Switch is moved to the "CRANK" position.
there is a parking brake input on the DRL control module. everything is ok!
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:50 AM   #3
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Thanks. All is well.
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Old 04-05-2010, 02:44 PM   #4
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yup normal operation....some people have been even known to click their ebrake just one notch to shut off the drl's because they think its annoying. i could give a rats ass
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:20 PM   #5
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i do it all the time. its just a habit. there is nothing at all wrong with using your emergency brake.
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:23 PM   #6
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it is good to use it once in a while so it doesnt freeze cause it is part of your inspection. If it doesnt work it fails
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:26 PM   #7
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Park setting on the trans is not the same as using the parking brake. Why put all that stress on the parking pawl? Plus letting the car roll and lock the trans makes it really hard to move out from park. That is why there is a parking brake.
From the owners manual:

Quote:
Torque Lock (Automatic Transmission)
If you are parking on a hill and you don’t shift your
transmission into PARK (P) properly, the weight of the
vehicle may put too much force on the parking pawl in
the transmission. You may find it difficult to pull the
shift lever out of PARK (P). This is called “torque lock.”
To prevent torque lock, set the parking brake and then
shift into PARK (P) properly before you leave the
driver’s seat. To find out how, see “Shifting Into
PARK (P)” in the Index.
When you are ready to drive, move the shift lever out of
PARK (P) before you release the parking brake.
If torque lock does occur, you may need to have another
vehicle push yours a little uphill to take some of the
pressure from the parking pawl in the transmission, so
you can pull the shift lever out of PARK (P).
But do as you like. Its your car.
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:34 PM   #8
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Yup. Set your brake. Don't trust the P.
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:25 PM   #9
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I don't believe your parking brake is part of inspection anymore, its just a "warning" like you only need 2 of your 3 brake lights to work now, its not an automatic fail. Otherwise I have been lucky. I don't have my emergency brake hooked up on my Explorer or Jeep and they have passed the state inspections a total of 4 times....
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Old 04-10-2010, 12:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy78TA View Post
I don't believe your parking brake is part of inspection anymore, its just a "warning" like you only need 2 of your 3 brake lights to work now, its not an automatic fail. Otherwise I have been lucky. I don't have my emergency brake hooked up on my Explorer or Jeep and they have passed the state inspections a total of 4 times....



theyve only checked it on cars ive owned that were manual
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Old 04-10-2010, 02:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy78TA View Post
I don't believe your parking brake is part of inspection anymore, its just a "warning" like you only need 2 of your 3 brake lights to work now, its not an automatic fail. Otherwise I have been lucky. I don't have my emergency brake hooked up on my Explorer or Jeep and they have passed the state inspections a total of 4 times....
Um yeah there supposed to check it on all cars but they only seem to romember to check it on my maunal cars and not the autos. The shop I worked at checked them in every car.
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