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05-15-2008, 06:08 AM
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#1
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 96
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Say I wanted good handling...
It's getting to that time where I'd like to change my suspension before it gets too soft. I was taking a look at all the different things offered to us, and have come up with the Bilestien/Eibach pro-kit combo. LCAs would be done as well, along with the relocation brackets.
Now, am I missing anything you think? Anything I should do while it's all apart anyway?
Also, if anyone knows any links with good pricing or group buys for said parts, it'd be appreciated.
Last edited by Mensaf; 05-15-2008 at 06:08 AM.
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05-15-2008, 10:31 AM
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#2
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mensaf
It's getting to that time where I'd like to change my suspension before it gets too soft. I was taking a look at all the different things offered to us, and have come up with the Bilestien/Eibach pro-kit combo. LCAs would be done as well, along with the relocation brackets.
Now, am I missing anything you think? Anything I should do while it's all apart anyway?
Also, if anyone knows any links with good pricing or group buys for said parts, it'd be appreciated.
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Our sponsors, JSPerformance and RPM Resto+Custom run deals for parts. I know RPM is running an LCA group purchase right now.
If you don't have them already, I would look into a set of subframe connectors first. While the stuff is apart I'd attack some of the undercarriage with a wire brush and a rust preventative paint to prevent future corrosion.
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05-15-2008, 04:32 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 96
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I always hit the potential rust areas with good ol' POR-15 after cleaning them up. I'm going to check out our sponsors' stuff later today.
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05-15-2008, 04:33 PM
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#4
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11 second club / Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 7,148
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I would do subframes first. But its your money.
__________________
2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57
1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85
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05-15-2008, 04:38 PM
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#5
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11 Second Club
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Hamilton Twp, NJ
Posts: 855
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I have Strano's springs, sway bars and Koni's SA and its a very nice combo, don't know how it stacks up to what you are considering, but the Strano package is very well thought out.
__________________
1999 Formula 6spd (The driver)
1997 2500 Ext. Cab Dodge 4x4 CTD 5spd (The Earth Mover)
1970 Nova 5spd (The toy)
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05-15-2008, 06:49 PM
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#6
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Co-Founder / Site Admin
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ewing, NJ
Posts: 22,473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QWIKBIRD
I have Strano's springs, sway bars and Koni's SA and its a very nice combo, don't know how it stacks up to what you are considering, but the Strano package is very well thought out.
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I know a lot of third gen guys on TGO used to run the Bilstien / Eibach Pro Kit combo after having Sam revalve the shocks to match the Pro Kit.
- Justin
__________________
1999 Camry - Beigemobile DD
2002 Suburban - Wife's DD
2004 Grand Cherokee - Not running / Project / Selling?
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05-15-2008, 07:19 PM
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#7
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Resident Camera Guy
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 10,971
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I ran the SLP Eibach/Bilstien combo and loved it. It was an excellent handling combination. I didn't think the car was low enough so I changed it up two more times after that.
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05-15-2008, 08:21 PM
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#8
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Power Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Milford NJ
Posts: 1,526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy
I know a lot of third gen guys on TGO used to run the Bilstien / Eibach Pro Kit combo after having Sam revalve the shocks to match the Pro Kit.
- Justin
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the most popular setup on TGO right now is koni yellows and the prokit, the adjustability of the koni is nice, as the bilstiens dont have that feature.
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Toys live
Last edited by //<86TA>\\; 05-04-2011 at 06:36 PM.
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05-15-2008, 08:29 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 96
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^But the lack of that feature is what keeps them from blowing and making another thread titled "****ing Konies are leaking," no? I was looking at those or AGX for adjustability, but I've only had AGX in the past.
Also, aren't the Bilestiens the only ones valved right or something?
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05-15-2008, 08:49 PM
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#10
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Co-Founder / Site Admin
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ewing, NJ
Posts: 22,473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mensaf
^But the lack of that feature is what keeps them from blowing and making another thread titled "****ing Konies are leaking," no? I was looking at those or AGX for adjustability, but I've only had AGX in the past.
Also, aren't the Bilestiens the only ones valved right or something?
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For a performance application, stay away from KYB shocks/struts. They are for run of the mill DD's for the most part.
The Bilstiens do not not from the factory valved correctly for aftermarket springs - they are designed to work with stock springs. For best performance you'll need to get them revalved (Sam Strano is local and can take care of it easily).
- Justin
__________________
1999 Camry - Beigemobile DD
2002 Suburban - Wife's DD
2004 Grand Cherokee - Not running / Project / Selling?
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05-16-2008, 09:13 AM
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#11
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,152
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Don't get hung up on adjustibility. Too much adjustibility can be bad. And Mr. I <3 the taste is right, SFC is the #1 thing to do.
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Vent Windows Forever!
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.
Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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05-16-2008, 11:43 AM
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#12
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 96
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Doing it all together. Since I don't own a welder or anything, I was thinking of getting the bolt on SFCs and then taking the car to someone to get those welded together. Dice? No dice?
Also, does anyone have Sam Strano's contact info handy?
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05-16-2008, 11:45 AM
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#13
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mensaf
Doing it all together. Since I don't own a welder or anything, I was thinking of getting the bolt on SFCs and then taking the car to someone to get those welded together. Dice? No dice?
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It is not uncommon to install SFC's this way. Just make sure that you take care to make the car straight and level when you bolt them in. You don't want to add wedge to the car when you don't mean to.
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05-19-2008, 07:19 PM
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#14
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 96
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Ok, all I need now is someone kind enough to give me this Strano character's contact info, and my next post here will be the results.
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05-19-2008, 07:50 PM
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#15
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Co-Founder / Site Admin
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ewing, NJ
Posts: 22,473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mensaf
Ok, all I need now is someone kind enough to give me this Strano character's contact info, and my next post here will be the results.
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http://www.stranoparts.com/
- Justin
__________________
1999 Camry - Beigemobile DD
2002 Suburban - Wife's DD
2004 Grand Cherokee - Not running / Project / Selling?
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05-19-2008, 08:18 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Elmer
Posts: 225
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depending on the mileage your strut bearings might be rotted once I had my struts apart I realized that they were in pretty bad shape plus a bad tierod end. just be prepared for extra costs. My Eibach pro kit ended up pretty low in the back, granted I have a 100lb. speaker box in the back but its about a 1 inch diff right now and looks like ass. Handleing is alright but I actually had to cut an inch out of my bumpstops and it is still bottoming out (also only using stock replacement kyb shocks in back). Gonna try to remove the bumpstops alltogether and maybe get better shocks for back. Let me know if you wanna see how bad it looks ill send you a pic. Im not all for buyig top of the line **** but you may want to consider it with this cuz my ride quality is absolute s**t right now.
And just putting this out there this thread pulled in 12 responses within the first 24 hrs. To help back up what I was bitching about in my suspension post.
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The faster I go the happier I am.
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05-19-2008, 08:39 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Galloway, NJ
Posts: 3,964
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I did UMI SFC, Tubluar LCA's and I have a Tubular Panhard bar, but now since i just got Eibachs in, I got to buy an adjustable Panhard bar, cause when you lower your car, you need an adjustable PHB to recenter your rear. I also have relocation brackets to be going on as well, and also I picked up from Suspension Techniques the 35/25mm sway bar combo, believe me, my car does not lean in corners lol, but yeah KYB's are like for DD and spirited racing, but go with Koni's or Bilstein's if your looking for a little more for your buck. I have the Bolt in SFC cause I dont have a welder too ,and I have had no problems with them. The nice thing is if you have something you need to work on, you can take them off and out of the way, and if you ever do get a welder, clean up the area, and take off the paint and weld away
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1996 Camaro C/S - 2/3 Corvette Engine
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigAls87Z28
Uh yeah, after they surprized buttsecks us at Pearl Harbor?
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Last edited by Blacdout96; 05-19-2008 at 08:40 PM.
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05-20-2008, 06:01 AM
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#18
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12 Second Club
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Vineland
Posts: 928
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Koni stuff comes with a lifetime warranty, you may want to keep that in mind. That in itself to me was worth the extra money.
I run koni yellows/eibach prokit, the pro kit rear spring rate is exactly the same as a stock iroc spring rate, and didnt lower the rear of my car at all. The front spring rate is a lot heavier and dropped the nose an inch or so. Everything else in the rear of my car is Spohn, no complaints.
SFCs are the first thing you should do before any modification to the car...I know Josh @ JS Performance does an awesome job with installing them, and his price is very reasonable considering he does a lot more than weld them in. He is also a dealer for UMI and can recommend different suspension items based on what you want for the car.
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87 iroc with the usual go fast stuff
heavier than your half ton.
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05-20-2008, 10:17 AM
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#19
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: south river
Posts: 1,289
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what really helped my car was BMR panhard bar, BMR subframe connectors, and BMR lca's loved how my car handled after!
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-Pete-
BLK 07 CTS M6 2.8
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05-20-2008, 11:44 AM
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#20
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Roselle Park, NJ
Posts: 173
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I haven't changed the springs or shocks yet, but i have installed UMI LCA's, and PHR. That alone helped alot. I put a set of 315's on this weekend and that REALLY helped. I had to grind down the inside of the wheel a bit, but was worth it. Like said above though SFC are a must.
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-Jay-
COD-MW2=X02ssMaroX XBOX LIVE
02 SOMSS-M6-,Volant CAI,TR55's,UMI LCA'S and PHR, Longtubes & TD's w/ sweet thunder bullets 315-35/17's. 349rwhp/372rwtq
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05-20-2008, 06:26 PM
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#21
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Co-Founder / Site Admin
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ewing, NJ
Posts: 22,473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSweet
I haven't changed the springs or shocks yet, but i have installed UMI LCA's, and PHR. That alone helped alot. I put a set of 315's on this weekend and that REALLY helped. I had to grind down the inside of the wheel a bit, but was worth it. Like said above though SFC are a must.
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You shouldn't have to grind the wheel at all, and you don't want to do that anyway. What's it hitting on, the bumpstop?
- Justin
__________________
1999 Camry - Beigemobile DD
2002 Suburban - Wife's DD
2004 Grand Cherokee - Not running / Project / Selling?
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05-20-2008, 09:27 PM
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#22
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13 Second Club / Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Franklin Lakes, NJ
Posts: 8,689
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koni shocks were the best mod i ever did to my car. comfy ride and great handling. i have the same setup as qwikbird by the way... qwik cars and great suspension
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
Except Jersey mike, great kid, but the way he looks at me makes me feel like im in danger
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05-20-2008, 09:30 PM
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#23
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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my rears didn't clear the bump stops....so i cut em off. barely clears like that
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05-20-2008, 09:52 PM
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#24
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Hillsborough, NJ
Posts: 2,630
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Definitely do SFC's, springs/shocks, lca's w/brackets, and if you have any money leftover I'd suggest panhard bar and torque arm. As stated above I'm a dealer for Spohn and can install all of the above mentioned products.
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--==RPM Resto & Custom==--
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Chevy High Performance - Readers Rides 4/03
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Auto Restorer Magazine - Feature Article 5/11
SkinAndSteel.com
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05-20-2008, 10:07 PM
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#25
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Roselle Park, NJ
Posts: 173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy
You shouldn't have to grind the wheel at all, and you don't want to do that anyway. What's it hitting on, the bumpstop?
- Justin
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Misunderstood i think. On the inside of the the wheel where the bead of the tire has to pop over in order to seat is where i grinded. The bead of the tire was soo thick that it wouldn't budge over the tiny hump. It almost had a square look to it so all i did was round it off.
BTW: These are on the stock wheels.
__________________
-Jay-
COD-MW2=X02ssMaroX XBOX LIVE
02 SOMSS-M6-,Volant CAI,TR55's,UMI LCA'S and PHR, Longtubes & TD's w/ sweet thunder bullets 315-35/17's. 349rwhp/372rwtq
Last edited by SuperSweet; 05-20-2008 at 10:10 PM.
Reason: cant spell
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