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Old 09-12-2010, 07:05 PM   #1
alamantia
 
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How do you remove torx bit slides in calipers

I went to install new front pads and rotors on my 2005 tahoe this morning. I placed my 3/8" allen socket on my rachet and reached behind the calipers to losen the slide bolts. To my surprise I saw the slide bolts were torx heads. I removed the allen from my rachet and replaced it with a T55 torx bit. I tried to loosen the slide bolts but broke my torx bit. I went to sears and tried again just to break another bit. I removed trhe entire caliper bracket to remove the pads that way, but the pads have notches in the tops and bottom where they ride on the caliper. Even with the caliper bracket removed I couldnt remove the pads. I dont know what was so bad with 3/8" allen head slider bolts. These torx heads suck, any suggestions?
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:13 PM   #2
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The first time I did it I got a bit specific for them, it was like $8 tops. If I was home I'd help you out with it
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:24 PM   #3
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So youre saying there is a better bit than a regular T55? What is different about a brake caliper torx bit?
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:26 PM   #4
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I'm not saying anything's better or worse, Just that I've had no problems with the one I bought specifically for the job

Try canned lubricant? Hitting it with a hammer? Heating/Cooling (safely) ?
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:30 PM   #5
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Hopw do I buy a bit specific for them?
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Old 09-12-2010, 08:42 PM   #6
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they use thread locker, they are always a pain to remove. you could try heating it. i've had good luck using a large 3/8's ratchet. a breaker bar with a pipe might help. just make sure you are squared up with the torx bit.
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Old 09-12-2010, 09:09 PM   #7
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What gets me is I thought you could just remove the caliper bracket access the pads that way but the pads are notched so you cant extract them that way. I tried sliding the caliper off the bracket but it would only go so far, not far enough to come out. Now I am wondering if the inner pad (pad that touches the piston) was siezed on the caliper preventing me from sliding the caliper all they way out. A simple wack from my hammer would have freed it up. Of course now I cant remember as I put it back together, I guess tomorrow I will just have to try again.
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Old 09-12-2010, 10:07 PM   #8
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1/2" impact gun works for me.
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Old 09-12-2010, 10:49 PM   #9
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1/2" impact gun is over kill on a caliper slide bolt, and unless you have an impact T55, it will just snap that one as well. . . . Between manufactuers there are differences in Torx bits and how they actually grab the bolt itself. Try PB or heat like they said.
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Old 09-13-2010, 07:58 AM   #10
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1/2" impact gun is over kill on a caliper slide bolt,
Not if the 3/8 gun wont remove it.



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and unless you have an impact T55, it will just snap that one as well. . . .
I do have an impact T55 but the rest of your statement isn't necessarily true either.
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:37 AM   #11
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What the hell brand torx bits are you using? Generally every torx that has told me to **** myself has twisted not snapped. Are you sure you're getting the driver seated fully in the bolt? I generally like to take a hammer and tap the socket/bit in a little then put the wrench on it when it feels like its fighting me.

That being said feather burner generally has a point. Even a non impact socket can often times free something stuck because the pulse of the impact gun hitting it a bunch of times excites the molecule in the metal aiding in freeing things up.

Its sorta like when you use a frame puller. You always pull a little, release, pull a little, release, pull a little, release, then all of the sudden it goes all at once without tearing.
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