under drive pulleys

[Teds89IROC]

What are your guys opinions on them for my 89 IROC, worth it or no? So far I have removed the smog pump and A.I.R. tubes and am in the process of removing the A/C. The car will be under collectors insurance and only driven on nice days. I have future plans of upgrading the heads/cam/intake and possibly going supercharged. It will never go back to a daily driver.

~Ted

[BigAls87Z28]

Waste of cash. That money is better spent on gas, or other mods. You could save that money, but a set of ZZ4 heads, and then make so much more hp.

[jrsfast84]

since your removing stuff from the car, what are your plans for the car, i would put the air back on, its nice to have air when its hot out.

[Tru2Chevy]

Originally Posted by jrsfast84

since your removing stuff from the car, what are your plans for the car, i would put the air back on, its nice to have air when its hot out.

Bah, he's got windows that roll down and t-tops, that's all the A/C you need. Besides, the A/C setup weighs almost 50 lbs!

- Justin

[ar0ck]

I say go for it, you have to get a new belt anyway, since your removing another pulley, why not shrink the ones on the crank & alt? Its less moving parts so you pick up the power lost in the system. Plus your not running a big system in it so you dont have to worry.

I say do it, tops its about ~$100.

[Teds89IROC]

Well, I don't really need to buy a new belt...I think I can either move my alternator to the smog pump position and that way buy a shorter belt..or I can pick up a 1LE A/C delete pulley for $40 from gmpartsdirect.com and keep the same belt routing and the same belt. So I'm not sure what to do yet

~Ted

[Fasterthanyou]

You've got lots of options. I had the same dilemma a couple years ago. My engine was overheating with and without the a/c on so I ditched it. Not to mention it didn't hold a charge worth a damn and I didn't know squat about how to fix it. All I knew was that my friend just got his a/c repaired and it ended up costing him $700. Yeah, RIGHT. So I put the alternator where the air pump was and removed the a/c compressor. Then between 6 trips to the parts store I finally got the right belt. To reverse the tensioner just remove the bolt holding it on and drill a new hole for the spring 180 degrees from the other. Then grind down some of the lip on the front of the tensioner that prevents it from rotating too far. You'll need that extra bit to remove the belt and keep it tight. That's how I did it and I'm really pleased with it. I also have a stock pullies and a Stewart stage II water pump. Having the beafed up water pump hub and bearing is good when you increase the belt tension.
I'd show you pictures but I'm sure you've already seen them on tgo.

[Teds89IROC]

thanks a lot Jon, that was very helpfull, I think I'll go with that setup. Now, to move the alternator to the air pump position..is it just a simple unbolt the alt. from stock position and rebolt it to the air pump area..or did you have to grind down the bracket some or make any kind of modification for it to work? Also, I've read on TGO another setup where they needed more support for the Alt., that one bolt holding it on wasn't good enough. With the setup you did..were you able to bolt more than one spot on the alternator?

~Ted

[Teds89IROC]

here's the pic i saw with that setup.



~Ted