Front end re-build

[cdacda13]

With summer pretty much here for me and plenty of time on my hands during the day, its project time.
The front end on the Camaro is pretty shot, so I'd figure I'd start the project there. Just want to make sure I haven't missed anything, or to see if people have any better experience with other companies.
Parts list:
Spohn front end re-build kit
Spohn fabricated steel upper strut mounts
Energy Suspension Poly Bushing kit
UMI Boxed sub frame connectors.
Spohn wonder bar
Edelbrock Strut tower brace.
BMR Sway bar set (32mm solid front, 21 mm solid rear, its cheaper as a set)
I'm thinking of going with KYB GR-2 struts and Hotchkis 1" Drop Springs.

Did I miss any of the little things? Anything on the list I should avoid?

Thanks guys and gals.

Edit: Looks like I thought about this before, since I posted pretty much the same thing a little under a year ago. Any feedback is still appreciated.

[BonzoHansen]

…some out loud thinking …

Spohn’s website says they make their own front end parts which I find interesting. I have some trouble believing they make common front end parts like tie-rods for the same price as quality replacement parts that sell at a much higher quantity. I prefer a known brand for my steering parts. MOOG parts are known as high quality and the price compare favorably to the price of the listed kit with unknown parts. And if you want to save money you can get cheaper parts (only the Delcos run more than the Moogs).

Part			Brand/#			Price	QTY	Cost
Center Link		MOOG Part # DS1049 	$77.79	1	$77.79
Idler Arm		MOOG Part # K6249 	$68.79	1	$68.79
Inner tie rod		MOOG Part # ES2227RL 	$35.99	2	$71.98
Outer Tie Rod		MOOG Part # ES2226RL 	$22.79	2	$45.58
Lower Ball Joints	MOOG Part # K6145T 	$24.99	2	$49.98
Tie Rod Sleeves		Edelbrock 5250 		$37.95	1	$37.95

								$352.07

Are you using stock LCAs? Make sure you replace the ball joints. If you are spending all that money on suspension and you are going for handling (it appears you are) I’d suggest Global West del-a-lum bushings for the LCAs. No bind, no squeak, more fluid movement. You can get the LCAs boxed too, if you want. Then you have a part as good (or better) as an aftermarket LCA, and the weight difference is negligible at best.

If you do that then you probably don’t need the whole Energy Suspension Poly Bushing kit. Do the new sway bars come with sway bar bushings? End links? All that is left maybe spring isolators (I forget if 3rd gens even have them).

What steering box is in that car? The low ratio one? I don’t think all 3rd gens got the better box. Maybe a new box is in order! The AGRs are pretty affordable.

What tires are you using to take advantage of all these great parts?

If you are lowering the car, do you need an adjustable panhard bar? What about rear control arms? Rear shocks?

If you have the front springs out do the motor mounts. They are much easier w/o the LCAs in the way.

[cdacda13]

Bonzo- Steering box will have to be looked at. Whenever I had the steering at fully turned, a loud creaking noise would happen. After looking through old threads, it might be the steering box cracked the frame where it bolts to.

Tires at the moment of Bridgestone Pontezas. 245 width. I have had a great experience with this tire. They're only 2 years old, maybe 12,000 miles on them. While not really the best tire in the rain/snow, I still love them. I plan on running these until I get new rims, then I will look for new ones.
AS for the rear, that is probably going to have to wait. I know lowering the car will require an adjustable pan-hard bar and rear control arms but being a college student, attacking the whole suspension at one time is not financially smart. Front suspension, and fix all the damn rust and rot on the under carriage are this summers plan.

[BonzoHansen]

Are those 245/60/16s?

Now you mention a noise issue and a cost issue, why not just replace the f/e parts that need to be addressed – rarely do all the parts need replacing. In my experience it’s usually idler, center link & LBJs that need attention the most. Do the SFCs, they are always a good idea. And fix the rust. Remember to budget for an alignment as well.

For reasons of balance, I would not bother with springs and struts/shocks/strut mounts until you can do front and rear together, and save the LCA stuff until you so the springs. You can also put off the bolt on stuff like the tower brace. Even the sway bars can wait if $$ is tight – replacement bushings & links are cheap. Leave the shiny stuff for after the car is solid and cash is available.

Make your entire plan, including the rear, then break it into smaller projects you can do as time & $$ come up. Plus then you’ll know what you want if good used stuff comes up for sale.

[cdacda13]

Yeah, you are right. I have the plan in my head, just haven't had the time lately to put it to paper.