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Old 08-10-2016, 02:34 PM   #1
NJ Torque
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So... I did a thing

I thinkI may have gotten bit by the roundy round bug...

What would be a good idea to start with the car? Braided brake lines, sticky tires?

I was thinking of taking the beginner course at NJMSP and giving it a go.

Thanks!
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Old 08-10-2016, 03:13 PM   #2
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I'd think you would see the most immediate improvement with sticky tires. Maybe a better seat as well so you can avoid using your knee on the door panel as well.
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Old 08-10-2016, 03:17 PM   #3
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so road course/auto-z, not wall stadium stock cars, right?

tires, quality pads & rotors are a good start. I don't know how your car is setup to make any real recommendations.

usually the nut behind the wheel needs more tightening than the other parts.
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 08-10-2016, 03:23 PM   #4
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FYI: Those not friends with you on social media may not know about the "Thing" you recently did.



Congrats, btw!
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Old 08-10-2016, 03:53 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6 View Post
I'd think you would see the most immediate improvement with sticky tires. Maybe a better seat as well so you can avoid using your knee on the door panel as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen View Post
so road course/auto-z, not wall stadium stock cars, right?

tires, quality pads & rotors are a good start. I don't know how your car is setup to make any real recommendations.

usually the nut behind the wheel needs more tightening than the other parts.

Yes, like an auto x event

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Originally Posted by Jersey Mike View Post
FYI: Those not friends with you on social media may not know about the "Thing" you recently did.



Congrats, btw!
This is the thing Mike's talking about.





Its a 2001 Z06, lowered on factory bolts.

My friend is willing to loan me a set of Fikse's with 315 Hoosier road race tires. Figured why not try this before it gets converted to an automatic.
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Old 08-10-2016, 04:00 PM   #6
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besides decent tires, pads & rotors, I might look into good shocks. When it's time my friend Mary races a c5 (and other cars), i think she upgraded to strano stuff. I can find out.

But seat time is more important than anything. You can incrementally add parts later.
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 08-10-2016, 05:20 PM   #7
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sweet new ride
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Old 08-11-2016, 07:29 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ Torque View Post
Figured why not try this before it gets converted to an automatic.
You make my head hurt.
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Old 08-13-2016, 05:59 PM   #9
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If you don't have prior road course experience, skip the sticky tires. Besides being costly and wearing quickly, they are less predictable than good performance street tires and tend to hold and then break loose all at once. Stay with stock suspension until you have the experience and skill to exceed the car's stock capabilities. Good track pads,and rotors are essentials as are good quality trans and diff fluids as track temps are far higher than what stock fluid design specs were designed to handle. Monitor tie pressures often and watch for cracks in the rotors. If instructors are available , ask for instruction. Bad habits learned early are hard to break- not to mention dangerous. You can't over hydrate yourself-especially in this weather. Be patient and have fun.
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Old 08-17-2016, 02:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jensend View Post
If you don't have prior road course experience, skip the sticky tires. Besides being costly and wearing quickly, they are less predictable than good performance street tires and tend to hold and then break loose all at once. Stay with stock suspension until you have the experience and skill to exceed the car's stock capabilities. Good track pads,and rotors are essentials as are good quality trans and diff fluids as track temps are far higher than what stock fluid design specs were designed to handle. Monitor tie pressures often and watch for cracks in the rotors. If instructors are available , ask for instruction. Bad habits learned early are hard to break- not to mention dangerous. You can't over hydrate yourself-especially in this weather. Be patient and have fun.
This is the mistake I made. Sticky tires cover up mistakes and makes it harder to learn. Luckily, I'm chewing through my tires quickly but next time around, I'm going down in tire size so I can learn the car better.

Congrats on the car though.
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Old 08-17-2016, 03:10 PM   #11
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Forgot to mention that the OEM C-5 rotors are only right side veined. That means that the air can't get inside the OEM rotor on the left front. This causes cracking from heat build up on track. Suggest getting aftermarket front rotors with proper veining for track use.
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Old 08-17-2016, 04:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jensend View Post
Forgot to mention that the OEM C-5 rotors are only right side veined. That means that the air can't get inside the OEM rotor on the left front. This causes cracking from heat build up on track. Suggest getting aftermarket front rotors with proper veining for track use.
Any suggestions on what to use? Pads? Do the z06 brake ducts actually do anything or is it just a novel idea?

I was offered a set of Fikses with Hooisers... Maybe I should shy away from that.

Other set I have are Nitto INVOs on the rear and Bridgestone Re760's on the front that I have available to me.

Also, would I be the mockery of the track if I trailered the car & it only being my first time, probably easier that way, since I'm about 2.5 hours from the track.
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2008 Sierra Vortec Max. 6.2 swapped, headers, Magnaflow catback, GMPP CAI, NHT optioned tow package.

2006 GTO, 11.48 @ 118.3

Last edited by NJ Torque; 08-17-2016 at 04:19 PM.
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Old 08-17-2016, 08:06 PM   #13
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As far as pads go, the Hawk line of pads is very good as there are lots of options from mild to very aggressive compounds. Suggest you don't get too aggressive a compound to start with as the pads work best within a specific heat range. If you have too mild a compound you'll overheat them and have fade. Too aggressive and they won't get up to proper temp and not work well. Try a compound one or two steps above a "street" pad. Tire Rack has good info on their web site about pad selection.

Not sure how the mixed set (NITTO/Bridgestone) will affect handling, but it probably won't be as big an issue as the Hoosiers- which tend to grip like hell and then don't. Chances are you won't be driving hard enough first time out to have an issue with the mixed set. Just be sure to check pressures after each session as they will probably build pressure at different rates.

If you have a trailer, use it. It will allow you to set the car up before you get to the track. At your first event everything seems new and unfamiliar and time seems to go too fast between registration, tech inspection, drivers' meeting, etc.. The less you have to do at the track, the more relaxed and focused you'll be as the day progresses. Don't forget, the main idea is to be safe and have fun. Staying relaxed and focused helps this happen. Anyone who thinks your trailer is silly isn't considering the advantage it provides. Also, if you have a mechanical issue, you don't have to worry about nursing the car home or a 2.5 hour towing fee. Ask me how I know this...
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