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05-04-2015, 07:54 AM
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#1
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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Oil Pressure: Weights etc
Right now I run 15w40 cause its cheap and I have it laying around from truck oil changes.
That being said, it basically pegs the gauge when cruising and its just wasting power/generating heat. I would like to try 5w40 but AFAIK, that will just affect cold start pressures right?
I would need to switch to a 5w30 area to see a lower pressure?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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05-04-2015, 08:06 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: milltown
Posts: 1,497
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you are right
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2002 Camaro Sunset Orange Mettalic, V6, 5spd, bilstein HD shocks and struts, eibach pro lowering kit, eibach f/r sway bars, lakewood PHB, UMI 2 point subframe connectors, energy suspensions poly master bushing kit
daily econobox and first car
1986 IROC-Z, T56, MGW shifter, Heads, Cam, Holley Stealth Ram 350, t-top, tubular LCA with relo brackets, adjustable PHB, belltech sway bars, ground control weight jacks, SLP mid length headers, 3in w/borla XR1, RIP 3 10 bolts, 12.7 @ 109 so far.. atleast its faster than stock SOLD
1971 Camaro LS3/T56/9in, cam only and still carbed, RIP 2 10 bolts, 11.62@121
03 Blazer 2 door - salt sponge
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05-04-2015, 08:56 AM
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#3
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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Yes, you should see lower pressure.
I don't know enough about oil weight requirements to give any useful info but I think there's information out there that can help you figure out what to run based on bearing clearances and such.
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05-04-2015, 09:08 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hackettstown, NJ
Posts: 1,639
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From what I know about oil, you want to stay away from large-weight-range stuff when you have a tough environment for it to live in. A turbo'd LT1 qualifies. I'd try 10-30. It'll be more 'shear stable' than a 5-30, the oil pressure difference on startup between 5 weight and 10 weight would be negligible.
What's your hot oil pressure? Pinning the gauge? If so, I'd definitely try a 30 weight.
__________________
1998 Z-28 - SLP lid - Ported TB - LS6 Intake - Dynatech SS headers/Catted Y - Magnaflow Exh - 3.42 - Yank SS3600 - UMI weld-in subframe connectors, Adj LCA, Adj PHB, Q1A TA - Bolt-in Relocation Brackets - Strano springs - Koni shocks - 17" C6Z06 wheels - 326HP/335ft-lbs - 12.35 @ 110.41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6
I can appreciate a dream but this person needed some real friends.
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Last edited by The_Bishop; 05-04-2015 at 09:09 AM.
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05-04-2015, 09:12 AM
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#5
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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Hot idle is prob round 35-40psi, again too much, but it makes me feel fuzzy inside.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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05-04-2015, 09:20 AM
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#6
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Lord of the rings / 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Millstone Township, NJ
Posts: 6,359
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Hot idle for mine with 5w40 is in the 35-40 range which I'm fine with.
__________________
97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140
'24 Corvette Z06
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
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05-04-2015, 09:25 AM
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#7
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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Do you have the same pressure while cruising? (you and I have similar clearances I think) [I have a HV pump though]
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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05-04-2015, 09:45 AM
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#8
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Lord of the rings / 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Millstone Township, NJ
Posts: 6,359
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While cruising, I am in the mid 40's or so when hot. I am 60-70 when cold but not pegging the gauge. Keep in mind my cruising RPM may be significantly different from yours.
__________________
97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140
'24 Corvette Z06
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
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05-04-2015, 09:58 AM
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#9
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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75mph is 2500rpm for me, 65mph is 2200rpm.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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05-04-2015, 10:14 AM
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#10
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Lord of the rings / 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Millstone Township, NJ
Posts: 6,359
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I'm below all of that in 6th. 1800 is around 65, 2000 at about 80. Prob lower since my tach is off by a couple hundred RPM.
__________________
97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140
'24 Corvette Z06
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
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05-04-2015, 10:24 AM
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#11
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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Hmn ok, I will toss some 30wt in and see how she does.
Lil scurred
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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05-04-2015, 10:35 AM
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#12
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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You should get a real gauge instead of trusting the factory stuff.
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05-04-2015, 10:40 AM
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#13
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
You should get a real gauge instead of trusting the factory stuff.
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Wait, this is with the factory gauge? Yikes.
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05-04-2015, 10:47 AM
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#14
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
You should get a real gauge instead of trusting the factory stuff.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBillyT
Wait, this is with the factory gauge? Yikes.
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Its a lot of pressure, vs, no pressure, so wanna try for mid range pressure, vs, no pressure.
Synthetic blend?
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rote...-gal./20573564
So much fancy
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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05-04-2015, 10:49 AM
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#15
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hackettstown, NJ
Posts: 1,639
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That should work, rotella is good stuff.
Also: High roller turbo build? Put a gauge on it!
__________________
1998 Z-28 - SLP lid - Ported TB - LS6 Intake - Dynatech SS headers/Catted Y - Magnaflow Exh - 3.42 - Yank SS3600 - UMI weld-in subframe connectors, Adj LCA, Adj PHB, Q1A TA - Bolt-in Relocation Brackets - Strano springs - Koni shocks - 17" C6Z06 wheels - 326HP/335ft-lbs - 12.35 @ 110.41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6
I can appreciate a dream but this person needed some real friends.
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Last edited by The_Bishop; 05-04-2015 at 10:50 AM.
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05-04-2015, 10:53 AM
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#16
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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I have no where to place an oil gauge nor do I really want that hassle. Like I said gauge is a yes or no kinda indicator.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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05-04-2015, 11:05 AM
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#17
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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A manual gauge in the cowl would tell you a whole lot about how great your factory gauge isn't.
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05-04-2015, 11:10 AM
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#18
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
A manual gauge in the cowl would tell you a whole lot about how great your factory gauge isn't.
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Its a potential option, but not directly related to this topic.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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05-04-2015, 11:24 AM
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#19
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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But it is. You are assuming you have too high oil pressure. You need to verify your cold and hot pressures with a gauge. You don't need a $300 gauge. A parts store mechanical gauge would be a viable option to verify your actual pressures. You are also chasing loss of power....you haven't even got the car to go down the track 100%. I'm all for doing things for longevity etc. I just don't want you to waste lots of time here when other things need more immediate attention.
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05-04-2015, 11:30 AM
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#20
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
But it is. You are assuming you have too high oil pressure. You need to verify your cold and hot pressures with a gauge. You don't need a $300 gauge. A parts store mechanical gauge would be a viable option to verify your actual pressures. You are also chasing loss of power....you haven't even got the car to go down the track 100%. I'm all for doing things for longevity etc. I just don't want you to waste lots of time here when other things need more immediate attention.
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Adam, aren't some of the factory gauges off by a large margin? Like 10+ psi?
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05-04-2015, 12:08 PM
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#21
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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All of the gauges are significantly off. Everyone knows the fuel level gauge is a joke. M6 guys know the tachs are off. It is what it is. Stick a real gauge on there and see what it is actually doing.
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05-04-2015, 12:31 PM
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#22
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Lord of the rings / 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Millstone Township, NJ
Posts: 6,359
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A basic mechanical gauge is a good idea. Can't identify if there is an issue without good information.
__________________
97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140
'24 Corvette Z06
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
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05-04-2015, 01:34 PM
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#23
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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I am very very apprehensive about a cheapo mechanical gauge, as its a plastic hose in an engine bay filled with things anxious to melt it and burn my car down.
If you think we can make a nice gauge under the cowl, and use SS braided to the port, I am all for it. And what makes you think I am chasing power? Just don't wanna use molasses if I don't have to.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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05-04-2015, 01:42 PM
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#24
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Lord of the rings / 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Millstone Township, NJ
Posts: 6,359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow
I am very very apprehensive about a cheapo mechanical gauge, as its a plastic hose in an engine bay filled with things anxious to melt it and burn my car down.
If you think we can make a nice gauge under the cowl, and use SS braided to the port, I am all for it. And what makes you think I am chasing power? Just don't wanna use molasses if I don't have to.
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No recommendation of cheap, plastic line of course but I'm guessing Adam meant you don't need a big $$ electronic gauge with all the fancy things.
__________________
97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140
'24 Corvette Z06
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
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05-04-2015, 02:12 PM
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#25
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow
I am very very apprehensive about a cheapo mechanical gauge, as its a plastic hose in an engine bay filled with things anxious to melt it and burn my car down.
If you think we can make a nice gauge under the cowl, and use SS braided to the port, I am all for it. And what makes you think I am chasing power? Just don't wanna use molasses if I don't have to.
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You can run a full sweep electronic gauge or go with a mechanical gauge with braided hose (that's what I did). If its mechanical just make sure you bleed it.
Either way it will be better than stock.
Last edited by WildBillyT; 05-04-2015 at 02:18 PM.
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