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01-29-2005, 02:23 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: clifton nj
Posts: 121
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starting up
My car starts up fine when it is cold but when it gets to running temp and you turn it off and try to start it up again it wont start sometimes. Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong?
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91 GTA, 305 auto, metallic green, t-tops needs a fender and a headlight. for sale.
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01-29-2005, 03:09 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Somerset County
Posts: 5,559
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i had the same problem w/ my lt1...turned out to be a bad coolant temp sensor...dunno if u have one of those tho
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1999 Corvette FRC
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01-29-2005, 09:27 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 3,047
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Does it crank, and not turn over? Or not even crank? If it doesn't even crank, it could be the starter solenoid going bad. It's a common GM problem. If you need to replace the starter, get a Vette LT1 starter or mini-starter. Better design and lasts longer.
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Seeya,
Steve R. in North Jersey
'16 Go-Mango Dodge Charger R/T. It's so good to be back in a V8-powered, RWD car!
Former Toy - '88 Monte SS - had lots of mods...
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01-30-2005, 08:32 AM
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#4
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11 Second Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Fishkill, NY
Posts: 1,278
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Does it drive OK when it gets warm? Or does it seem down on power? IF you still have a converter on it make sure it hasn't collapsed inside. Just tap on it and see if there are any rattles.
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-Nick
9/11/01- Never Forget
2002 Pontiac Trans-Am WS6 # 206
Chasing 10's
469RWH/437RWTQ
11.05 @ 123
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01-30-2005, 09:02 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: clifton nj
Posts: 121
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It drives fine when its warmed up.
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91 GTA, 305 auto, metallic green, t-tops needs a fender and a headlight. for sale.
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01-30-2005, 10:41 AM
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#6
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13 Second Club
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ewing/Galloway, NJ
Posts: 3,904
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dont know bout 3rd gens, but do you have a heat shield on the starter?....starters arent big fans of heat and get pissy when they do get hot
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EB
99 Riviera, Bone stock, 14.34 @ 96 "Walking 5.0's in luxury" RIP
95 Cherokee, Bone stock 16.2 @ 83 "Treeing your 3rd gen and beating it to the line despite trapping less....and looking better"
93 TA, Bone stock, 13.8 @ 100 "Beating ****** drivers in ****** LS1's"
https://www.facebook.com/groups/285090241699967/
R.I.P. Tia
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01-31-2005, 10:15 AM
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#7
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Montgomery NJ
Posts: 1,271
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All of the above and one more thing to check is the wiring to the starter itself. If it cranks over slowely, check the wiring, you'd be suprised how many miles a stock starter can last with a good battery and good wire contacts.
If it just isn't firing and the cranking is fine but no SES light, well, does the SES light even work? Too often previous 3rd gen owners will remove the bulb or let it burn out. You've got a 91 so it doesn't have a MAF (which is GOOD, I hate expensive finiky sensors) so if you bring the car to the next meet you can hook up my scanner and see if there are any dead sensors.
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, Jon
Owner of a Red Sled.
If it\'s EFI I can tune it. Specialize in 82-95 GM (yes Lt1\'s)
\"If you can leave black marks on a straight from the time you exit a corner till the time you brake for the next turn.......Then, you have enough horsepower\" - Mark Donohue
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01-31-2005, 12:09 PM
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#8
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13 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Clifton,NJ/ Providence,RI
Posts: 520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasterthanyou
All of the above and one more thing to check is the wiring to the starter itself. If it cranks over slowely, check the wiring, you'd be suprised how many miles a stock starter can last with a good battery and good wire contacts.
If it just isn't firing and the cranking is fine but no SES light, well, does the SES light even work? Too often previous 3rd gen owners will remove the bulb or let it burn out. You've got a 91 so it doesn't have a MAF (which is GOOD, I hate expensive finiky sensors) so if you bring the car to the next meet you can hook up my scanner and see if there are any dead sensors.
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i talked to mark on the phone about whats wrong with is car..the way he described it sounds more like an ignition or fuel problem then a started problem..im gonna be back from school this weekend so i can take a look at it with him..
ill also make sure theres a bulb in the ses light. and see if im getting any codes..
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01-31-2005, 08:34 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 365
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doesnt sound like starting problem to me.
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AIM: blacktoprecs
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01-31-2005, 10:19 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Montgomery NJ
Posts: 1,271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9secfirebird
doesnt sound like starting problem to me.
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You sure? He said he's having starting problems...
__________________
, Jon
Owner of a Red Sled.
If it\'s EFI I can tune it. Specialize in 82-95 GM (yes Lt1\'s)
\"If you can leave black marks on a straight from the time you exit a corner till the time you brake for the next turn.......Then, you have enough horsepower\" - Mark Donohue
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02-01-2005, 11:12 AM
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#11
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13 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Clifton,NJ/ Providence,RI
Posts: 520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9secfirebird
doesnt sound like starting problem to me.
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theres a starting problem but no problem witht the starter itself...
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02-07-2005, 06:49 PM
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#12
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13 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Clifton,NJ/ Providence,RI
Posts: 520
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ok i checked the car out when i was at home...
it starts cold fine...we let it warm up then turned it off and it wouldnt start again..
the ses light was on and it threw a 15 code... low temp at colant sensor...
any ideas?
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02-07-2005, 08:49 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Montgomery NJ
Posts: 1,271
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I have an idea... replace CTS (coolant temp sensor).
If the ecm thinks the engine is cold it stays in open loop. When it does this, you'll be running richer than stoich hence the flooding of the engine on warm restarts. Try this for me and see if it works; Floor it while you're cranking after it fails to start warm. Obviously don't keep it floored when it catchs and fires but that should put the ecm into "clear flood" mode. When it's in this mode it doesn't fire the injectors or it commands a really high AFR which doesn't fire the injectors. When I mean floor it I mean peddle to the floor and no lifting, no pumping, just keep it floored until it starts.
Then replace the CTS sensor or first try cleaning the connector.
__________________
, Jon
Owner of a Red Sled.
If it\'s EFI I can tune it. Specialize in 82-95 GM (yes Lt1\'s)
\"If you can leave black marks on a straight from the time you exit a corner till the time you brake for the next turn.......Then, you have enough horsepower\" - Mark Donohue
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02-08-2005, 08:19 AM
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#14
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13 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Clifton,NJ/ Providence,RI
Posts: 520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasterthanyou
I have an idea... replace CTS (coolant temp sensor).
If the ecm thinks the engine is cold it stays in open loop. When it does this, you'll be running richer than stoich hence the flooding of the engine on warm restarts. Try this for me and see if it works; Floor it while you're cranking after it fails to start warm. Obviously don't keep it floored when it catchs and fires but that should put the ecm into "clear flood" mode. When it's in this mode it doesn't fire the injectors or it commands a really high AFR which doesn't fire the injectors. When I mean floor it I mean peddle to the floor and no lifting, no pumping, just keep it floored until it starts.
Then replace the CTS sensor or first try cleaning the connector.
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thanks...where is the sensor on the engine?
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