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Old 04-18-2015, 01:48 PM   #1
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HELP!! 1986 Camaro engine issues!!

HELP!!

Hi, I really need to find someone who can help me out and knows a little bit more about the engine then me. Since I can tell the engine is missing some parts and some vacuum lines are missing and I don't know what things I will need and where they go. Since I bought the car in that way and looking at a repair book doesn't help. 305 V8

I need the car to be able to drive with out issues. Since I have to move once in a while. Since someone is renting my garage right now.

I hope someone can please help me.

here is some pictures and video I took of my car.

https://youtu.be/JwDS3-wDivQ







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Old 04-18-2015, 03:20 PM   #2
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Ah the good ol computer controlled q-jet. Where abouts are you located? Kinda hard to see where everything belongs without actually looking at it

Edit: here's a vac diagram that should help

35koa5e.jpg
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Old 04-18-2015, 04:01 PM   #3
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I live in clark NJ

So I looked at it just now and look at repair manual and I made a list of some missing things I think I noticed I'm not sure if they effect the car.

missing
EGR valve
air check valve
PCV valve
EVAP canister purge valve
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Air switch valve

Not sure if Air pump is missing

also Carb hose from Evaporative emissions canister is not plugged in to anything.

also missing Crankcase Vent tube

Also a hose has a screw in it

also a piece of metal covering a hole on Intake manifold.
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Old 04-19-2015, 12:57 AM   #4
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Why is PVC missing? And Engine coolant temperature sensor? That probably isn't good with the CCC system. I see the feedback q-jet so I assume you are still running factory neck and distributor.
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Old 04-19-2015, 09:39 AM   #5
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Would a new carb and new distributor be out of your budget? And I mean a real carb and a standalone type distributor, not the ccc one.

That's one way to begin addressing the issues.

The other is to make sure all plugs are connected and all vacuum lines are replaced according to that diagram. Once that's done, check for any trouble codes. If there are any, continue along that path.
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Old 04-20-2015, 04:20 PM   #6
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missing parts


















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Old 04-20-2015, 05:11 PM   #7
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first pic... just seems to be of the baffle in the valve cover under the pcv valve. seems normal.

third pic... looks to be the connection for the "air warmer" hose that feeds the factory air cleaner assembly when cold or first started. With an aftermarket air filter/filter base, its not useful anyway. You don't need it.

The middle few pics all seem to show that the emissions system/egr had been removed for the most part and the vacuum lines for it were not properly capped off.

last 2 pics are for the EGR on the intake manifold. A block-off plate has been installed.

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Old 04-20-2015, 05:27 PM   #8
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Yeah all the emissions stuff has been removed. Basically you need to plumb the vac lines for what you do have and cap off the ones for what you don't. The CC Q-jet is OK but you need a coolant temp sensor for it to work correctly on a cold start enrichment. Without a coolant sensor the computer will always see -40* which will open up the cold start enrichment all the way all the time no matter how warm it is. In other words it will run pig rich
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Old 04-20-2015, 05:45 PM   #9
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V how much would that run me for a real carb and a standalone type distributor?

Because right now I'm not working and I'm just starting this project. Also I'm not sure what shape the engine is in and if I might swap it out in the future. Not sure if I want to keep 305 V8, or go a 350 or LSX engine if I have the money to. So I'm really not sure if throw a lot into it is the engine knowing that is a good idea or not. the Camaro is still a project right now and it has to be able to drive.
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Old 04-20-2015, 06:17 PM   #10
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Greenforula92 the electrical and computer are something else I'm not sure if there all hooked up since not all the electrical in the car is up and running.
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Old 04-20-2015, 07:16 PM   #11
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brand new performance parts could cost up to $1,000.
good used parts could probably be found for 2-300. a 600 carb and a standard hei distributor would work fine. You'd still need to address the vacuum line issues though.

being that its an '86 LG4 code motor, i wouldn't dump big money into it. try to fix what you have for now. odds are the motor now won't ever give you the hp you may want in the future. a few hoses and some time under the hood with a manual is your best, and least, expensive bet.

buying upgraded parts now with an undecided motor swap in mind would be a waste of money in my opinion. LT1 motors are getting cheap now and whole donor cars can be bought for around 1500. figure a few more hundred for swap specific parts and you'll have a much faster than stock 1986 Camaro.

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Old 04-20-2015, 10:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evildante View Post
Greenforula92 the electrical and computer are something else I'm not sure if there all hooked up since not all the electrical in the car is up and running.
If you turn the key on and the service engine soon light comes on the computer is hooked up. IIRC if it isn't the solenoid on the carb will stay in whatever position it was in when disconnected. At the very least a new carb will be beneficial as far as driveability. I would just try to find a non-cc q-jet and have it rebuilt and tuned right and at the very least you will have it drive able without breaking the bank. The other thing is the computer will control the timing advance on the distributor. So you will have to do something with that as well if you ditch the electronics all together like V said. It all depends on your long term plans. But a LG4 isn't going to be a powerhouse by any stretch even after work. So performance parts on that motor is kinda pointless
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Old 04-21-2015, 04:26 PM   #13
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the computer seems to be hooked up since I don't get any issues on dash. Also it must be hooked up since the Camaro is a Berlinetta and the dash mostly electrical digital gages. But if I do a engine swap and need all new wires and computer will I run into issues because it is a 86 Camaro Berlinetta?
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Old 04-21-2015, 06:22 PM   #14
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does this thing need to pass inspection?
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:03 PM   #15
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no, it wont. Plus right now it's not going to be driven on the streets till I fix her up. but when I do I'm going with classic car insurance since its 29 years old.
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Old 04-21-2015, 11:21 PM   #16
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insurance is irrelevant. are you putting QQ/historic plates on it? just checking on inspection because I see advice being given w/o asking pertinent questions. what are the goals for the car, just a nice cruiser?

i think the digital gauges still use standard senders and nothing from the ECM. but that should be verified.
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 04-22-2015, 12:31 AM   #17
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most likely QQ plates since and I might use this car for some cruising on street and maybe on track as well. Plus it's not my daily driver car you will see my Honda Saturday.
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Old 04-22-2015, 10:09 AM   #18
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That is good. QQ=no inspection, regular plates =inspection required. that impacts your decisions.

I might suggest determining what you really want to do before spending any money on the engine. If "maybe on track" means maybe once for fun, and money is tight, then if that 305 is good then maybe doing simple things to get it running right are in order. But if you really plan on going fast then maybe not. Fast, cheap, reliable, pick two.
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop

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Old 04-22-2015, 12:06 PM   #19
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Are the 305 Engine Blocks actually that good and reliable your the 2nd person who to me to keep the 305 in it because there reliable and can take a beating and still run.

I still know very little about fixing cars. Also this Camaro is 3 year older then me. LOL

For right now I will keep the 305 in it, since money is tight right now.

But the Camaro also needs to be able to move. Since someone is renting my garage out to someone who has a brand new Mustang that is a limited Edition in it.

So I right now I really need help finding out if the 305 engine in the Camaro is in good shape or not and some help fixing it up so it runs right. Because It might be in good shape right now. But if I have to keep on moving it in the shape it's in now it will cause damage to the engine over time.

Right now I rather be able to have a Camaro that runs then one that will sit.

Plus I also have to work on the car itself remove some rust and fix electrical and interior and exterior. So right now the car running is good enough for me right now.

I will consider a engine swap maybe later on down the road. When I have more money. I know that is not cheap. Since with a different engine that's not one out of a 3 gen. Camaro you will run in to issues there is a lot of extra stuff you will need like computer set up, wiring, motor mounts, new trans, new customize headers and exhaust, reinforcing the frame so it can handle the weight and HP and any other parts needed.
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Old 04-22-2015, 12:37 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evildante View Post
Are the 305 Engine Blocks actually that good and reliable your the 2nd person who to me to keep the 305 in it because there reliable and can take a beating and still run.

I still know very little about fixing cars. Also this Camaro is 3 year older then me. LOL
The 305 is a good engine for the most part, it just has limited power potential and some inherent flaws.

My 0.02:

Get what you've got running properly before you consider any type of swap. If you plan on getting QQ plates and classic insurance you can probably do a carb and distributor swap (to a more old-school setup) pretty easily. Something like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...00vs/overview/ and this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850001r/overview/ would be a start.

FYI you do have a PCV valve, it's in the valve cover with a 3/8" (larger) hose going to it.

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Old 04-22-2015, 01:50 PM   #21
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it's all about spending your limited resources wisely. you do not appear to be able afford mistakes right now, which is where most of us are lol

A simple intake, a 600 cfm electric choke carb & an HEI distributor should work, and probable a new air cleaner since i'm not sure that stock one will clear aftermarket carbs (anyone know?). and then there is the related gaskets, vac hoses, oil, filter, antifreeze, sealant, fuel lines, fuel filter, let's see what else..... plus whatever else you need to make it street safe.

if you can get a non-electric q-jet that saves the need for an intake, air cleaner and all that is associated with changing that intake. that might be the most economical way out.
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 04-22-2015, 03:01 PM   #22
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The stock air cleaners usually run into the linkage of aftermarket square bore carbs.

Another possibility is to just grab another q-jet from an older vehicle. It wasn't until the early 80's that the whole V8 line up started going to the computer controls, previous to that it was basically the same carb just with all mechanical adjustments. If someone around here doesn't already know I sure google will be able to find a mechanical 4 barrell for a pre-1980 chevy V8.
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Old 04-22-2015, 03:33 PM   #23
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I'll go against the grain and say nah to a non-CC Qjet. And I'm not just hating on them, they are a great carb.

Even if he finds one it probably will need some work to be up to snuff, and even then working with a q-jet may be out of his comfort zone.

You can throw a rock and find somebody who has information on tuning a 600 Holley.

Grab an adapter plate if you don't want to swap intakes yet. Hell, I probably have one I can give you.

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Old 04-22-2015, 03:39 PM   #24
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adapter plate likely puts it into the hood. still need new air cleaner, maybe you can buy room with a drop base.

I'm not suggesting an unknown used q-jet. I'm suggesting a fresh rebuilt one, same cost more or less of any other carb, lot less extra parts needed. Just a thought in a budget. along these lines: https://www.smicarburetor.com/produc...2/productID/18
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 04-22-2015, 03:57 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by BonzoHansen View Post
adapter plate likely puts it into the hood. still need new air cleaner, maybe you can buy room with a drop base.

I'm not suggesting an unknown used q-jet. I'm suggesting a fresh rebuilt one, same cost more or less of any other carb, lot less extra parts needed. Just a thought in a budget. along these lines: https://www.smicarburetor.com/produc...2/productID/18
That would work too if they can put a base tune for his engine in the carb before they mail it out. My biggest concern is tuning it to work right once it's bolted on.
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