Are you complimenting me ?

Maybe.

Until the next cut harness fiasco :bertstare:

I was referring to inner fender liners, they are plastic. If you are keeping the interior plastics, I'd run the wiring down the side(s) so its out of sight and protected and you don't have two little humps in your ozite.

oh, wheel housing liners... yeah they didnt make the cut. There in a dump somewere.

Yes, now that i did the wires threw the panel behind the dash im going to run the cables up the pass side behind the interior trims.

Any objections to 5w30 mobil 1 and dexcool as fluids

No. I really like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum but Mobil is good too

Mobil is free fo me so that is why its the current favorite

If free was an option for me, then free would win out every time

Ended up running out of battery cable last night lmao i tried making it with 50", and i prob would have with some more creative routing, but oh well. I ordered another 10" of it to make the cables from the battery to ground, battery to switch and ground.

All other wiring is done. well i think so atleast.

Fuel pump hot wire to the battery/alt side of the cut off switch right? not the starter side

You need to be taking weight out of the car, not adding to it.

Tell that to my midsection

Todays objectives are to get the Y pipe VS TQ arm situation solved and get the Drive shaft in. Also throw the O2s in. If im able to figure that out without much trouble/time then im also going to throw the interior back in. And by interior i mean cluster.

The last length of battery cable should arrive tomorrow so today ill head to the store and pick up a battery.

Anyone got a "check off list" i should run down before i crank this slut

Clean oil, charged battery, decent tune, and fresh fuel.

Crank her without fuel or spark to verify oil pressure, then let her eat

^^ this. Also check for proper fuel pressure, confirm all fluids are topped off, quick nut/bolt/connector check.

The battery and alternator are the only two that go on one side of switch. They contain the power to feed everything else. Everything else goes on the other side of switch. When you kill the switch, you kill everything else. That is the idea. Fuel pump goes on starter side.

I prefer mean green and I would bleed the system as best as you can before running.

Completely forgot about the trans cooler, so that ended up being yesterdays mission. got it mounted up nice and solid. Just need to connect the lines.

Bottom trans port goes to cooler inlet and the top port on the trans is the return, right?

Today i dont have time due to being forced to go out for a coworkers bday, but tmmr ill be on it bright and early.

Really hoping Saturday is first fire. the PCM i have has a tune for H/C/I so it shouldnt be to to far off. Hopefully enough to get it going. If not my buddy Nishan who tunes will be on the way over to my house.:lol:

Could have sworn we went through this in this thread already.

Feed the cooler from bottom, push the fluid up and out.

yes, we went over the cooler portion, i wanted to clarify which is which out of the trans case itself

As expected, ran into some problems. It’s possible I missed something but who knows.

1-Soon as I flip the cut off with to On, car gets power but the brake lights are on as if I’m stepping on the pedal.

2. With key “hot” radio turns on(shockingly) and you can hear the EWP, so that’s good. But I don’t hear the fuel pump kick, nor any sign of fuel pressure on the rail mounted gauge.

3. Turn key to start, and nothing. Not even a click.

I’m assuming this is something to do with the VATS?

Is the security light blinking? Pretty sure it does that when there's a VATS issue.

For the first startup, if you really want to make it easy on the rotating assembly, cut the spark and fuel, and pull the plugs. No compression = No real load on the bearings = faster cranking with no load on the starter = Quick and safe prime.

No security light, only light on the cluster is service engine. Nothing else lights up. Not even the mileage. And the needles like to jump around as well

That points to something being off in the power feeds, maybe the grounds. How hacked up was the harness?

Agreed

Pretty hacked. When the drivetrain was removed it was removed as if they didn’t care about the car anymore. Instead of things being unbolted they were snipped. The engine harness is off a car that was running, only issue I ran into with the engine harness is that the alternator plug was ripped off. Which was an easy fix.

I don’t think the battery ground could be an issue, Bc the rest of the car is getting power fine. Ground for that is a nut and bolt threw rear frame rail.

The engine is grounded in 2 spots. 1 off the driver side using 1 of the stock alternator bracket bolt holes up to the driver side shock tower factory ground. And the same on the passenger side, using a AC compressor bolt hole up to the passenger shock tower ground.

If its like LT1 cars, you should be able to get power to harness and manually crank it via a push button and bypass the "car side" of things.