anyone feel like its easier to drag race with a stock manual shifter?

[6spdg37s]

I ran the whole 1st season with my f-body with the stock factory shifter. Winter time I put in a pro 5.0 short throw with a ws6 short stick. I feel like this shifter is hard to really bang gears fast and in turn is hurting my 1/4 time....This season I am not doing as well as last season despite better 60' times

I am using as much effort as possible to shift when I shift yet I just feel like it is overly notchy.

[redsoxsstink]

That's a product of the pro 5.0. Could never shift my that fast. I highly recommend the mgw over the pro 5.0

[Blackbirdws6]

Stock shifter required minimal effort but the throws are just too long IMO. I swapped the stock shifter to a Hurst+ and then later added a Lou's short stick. The Hurst provided shorter throws with added feel. I do not have any experience with a Pro 5.0 or B&M in a fbody. I have played with a B&M, Hurst and MGW in a C5 though but it won't be the same. All shifters, except stock, seemed "stiff" in the C5 application so I guess this may carry over into the other 4th gen offerings.

I was reading a lot about the recently introduced Hinson shifter. I was hesitant to buy it without being able to mess with it beforehand but there seemed to be a good buzz about it. During the holidays they ran a sale which extended to Amazon. I got it for a heavy discount (holiday price + discover 5% cashback, free prime shipping, no tax).

I dropped the shifter into the car this week and initial impressions are very positive. The shift effort is very light with a very direct, short throw and positive feel. I honestly can't see how you can miss the 2-3 with this thing (I may find a way ). The shift lever is vertical so placement of the shift knob is a touch over to the right side of the car. They made a version with the shift handle moved about an inch towards the driver but I am going to give this a try as is. It was designed this way so it makes sense to play with it before trying something different. If I decide to move it over, the Lou's short stick should bolt right on and angle the shift knob towards me. Alternatively I could just add a spacer to the existing stalk. Either may mess with the intended geometry and function of the unit so again, I am going to drive it as is for a bit.

[6spdg37s]

At least its not me ! lol I even watched the gopro video of me racing and I just feel like the shifts are taking forever because of that extra resistance

I am tight on cash right now so I think I will swap back to stock and see how I run

last season i had a 1.74 60' and ran a 12.1 now I had a 1.70 60' and ran a 12.5 so I attribute that time difference to the shifter because as I mentioned I feel like I am taking forever to shift.

[sweetbmxrider]

Did you compare da's? What was the mph?

[6spdg37s]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

Did you compare da's? What was the mph?

DA was similar... my mph was down from 113 to 110 but i think it is because I had more time between shifts

[Blackbirdws6]

If you have the ability to datalog, it would be interesting to see the difference in both shifters.

[6spdg37s]

Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6

If you have the ability to datalog, it would be interesting to see the difference in both shifters.

cant datalog. well prob could because its tuned with hp tuners but would have to take the tuners laptop lol so not getting all involved in that...the difference will be in the slips...

not sure if i will try one more week with this shifter because I have another tire setup i wanna try as well...

[Blackbirdws6]

Originally Posted by 6spdg37s

cant datalog. well prob could because its tuned with hp tuners but would have to take the tuners laptop lol so not getting all involved in that...the difference will be in the slips...

not sure if i will try one more week with this shifter because I have another tire setup i wanna try as well...

I think you will find more variability using the 1/4 mile to confirm if the shifter is slowing you down. There are just too many variables (DA, 60', everthing else). Anyone with HP Tuners and an interface should be able to datalog.

[6spdg37s]

Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6

I think you will find more variability using the 1/4 mile to confirm if the shifter is slowing you down. There are just too many variables (DA, 60', everthing else). Anyone with HP Tuners and an interface should be able to datalog.

this is true... I also watched the video from my go pro that was in the car and i noticed i was lifting off the gas when shifting.. not sure why because I never do that...

is there any pre-load adjustments on the pro 5.0 shifter? it also only has about 400 miles on it maybe 500 so it def isn't broken in 100% yet

[Blackbirdws6]

Originally Posted by 6spdg37s

this is true... I also watched the video from my go pro that was in the car and i noticed i was lifting off the gas when shifting.. not sure why because I never do that...

is there any pre-load adjustments on the pro 5.0 shifter? it also only has about 400 miles on it maybe 500 so it def isn't broken in 100% yet

Others can comment regarding the pro 5.0 adjustments but regarding the mileage break in, I would spend more time with it before taking it out.

[edpontiac91]

Maybe I'am DATING myself (who else would go out with me), but do you guys still POWER SHIFT or lift between shifts? I did it with a few manual GTO's I had, but was always scared S**TLESS if I missed a gear and over reved it.

[Blackbirdws6]

I don't powershift the bird anymore but have in the distant past.

[BonzoHansen]

Originally Posted by 6spdg37s

is there any pre-load adjustments on the pro 5.0 shifter? it also only has about 400 miles on it maybe 500 so it def isn't broken in 100% yet

No.

[6spdg37s]

after doing more diagnosing I think the issue is actually that the clutch is not completely disengaging and under normal driving it is okay but at full throttle attempting to power shift it is having the issue. Been in touch with clutch manufacturer and it looks like although the measurements were within spec to not use the shim , it appears I will have to install the shim to remedy the situation.

[ThoR294]

Originally Posted by 6spdg37s

after doing more diagnosing I think the issue is actually that the clutch is not completely disengaging and under normal driving it is okay but at full throttle attempting to power shift it is having the issue. Been in touch with clutch manufacturer and it looks like although the measurements were within spec to not use the shim , it appears I will have to install the shim to remedy the situation.

Oh wait.... Déjà vu here. Didn't we say not to go with spec?

[6spdg37s]

Originally Posted by ThoR294

Oh wait.... Déjà vu here. Didn't we say not to go with spec?

just need to put the shim in

[6spdg37s]

decided to order the tick master cylinder, I think all problems will be cleared up with this.

[V]

What happened with the shim?

[6spdg37s]

Originally Posted by V

What happened with the shim?

I put the shim in but even with the shim at 6500 banging gears it gets locked out, so its also a hydrolic flow problem.

I heard that sometimes with firm/agressive stage clutches the factory master can't provide enough fluid to it/pressure to allow the TOB to disengage the clutch fully...

[ThoR294]

You have an LS car right? If that's the case then yeah I've seen stock hydraulics be bad (common fix is drill mod or tick upgrade)

[V]

I had high rpm issue with spec. Switched to textrailia and never had the issue again. Shifted at 6900-7200. Still had stock hydraulics

[NJ Torque]

Pro 5.0 is fine... I love mine and I'm not a real good stick driver.

[6spdg37s]

Originally Posted by ThoR294

You have an LS car right? If that's the case then yeah I've seen stock hydraulics be bad (common fix is drill mod or tick upgrade)

yup LS car


supposidly, stage 3 and higher clutches require a lot of force from the TOB to disengage completely due to their stiffness

[6spdg37s]

installed tick master today and everything is good !