1971 Firebird - Page 4 - NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds

rscamaro73 · 01-25-2009, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amargari

Here's a page on how I fixed mine

http://www.apiem.com/camaro/SubframeRepair20060829.asp

I bought the Goodmark repair kit and it is not a direct fit. Just buy some steel and drill a hole in it.

Wow....now i wish I had a real garage...I coulda been busting this stuff out on my bodywork....

B4C · 02-19-2009, 12:08 AM

Wow nice project. I dont know if you got your frame done yet but I had the same problem with my nova on the mounting holes. I bought a kit from year one to fix them and then took my frame to Nicks on 322 in williamstown and had him weld them on. When was assembling the front subframe for the nova I put the engine and trans in place first and then up the subframe back in much easire that way.
Herea a link to my photobucket mayeb some of the pics can give you some ideas.
If you need any help on the project let me know Im not far from sewell
http://s146.photobucket.com/albums/r...evy/72%20Nova/

usp55 · 02-21-2009, 05:15 PM

ive not worked on the car in about 3 weeks. Been going out a lot lately and work has been very busy. slow 88 is gona help me fix that small rust problem on the frame but i have to get ahold of my neighbors suburban to move the frame to his shop and its just been hard to find the time dealing with three different schedules to get it done.

once i get the frame fixed it should just be a matter of me getting the time in the garage to have some fun and start rebuilding the front end.

WildBillyT · 02-22-2009, 05:46 PM

While you have the subframe out make sure you run some fresh beads where the seams are. The factory welds are covered in spatter and can be pretty weak.

WildBillyT · 02-23-2009, 12:47 PM

Collin:

To clarify as per your PM:

The factory welds holding the frame together are not very good quality. Not only was it a fast paced environment at the time of production, welding technology was a little different back then. What you can do to beef up your subframe is run some beads at the subframe seams, where the two channels meet along the rails, around the upper control arm mounts, etc. You don't need to go crazy but it is pretty important if you plan on really driving the car hard.

79T/A · 02-23-2009, 01:10 PM

Good info!

usp55 · 02-23-2009, 05:30 PM

bill, again thanks as always. Nothing but great info

Frank drives a Firebird · 04-06-2009, 07:53 PM

No updates lately? I've enjoyed following this project

usp55 · 04-11-2009, 01:38 PM

yea sorry I've been really busy with work and funds had to reallocated to the camaro as i blew my trans last week.

the frame has been worked on by slow88 and he did an great job fixing that body mount and getting it back to its proper size. The frame is covered in por15 and i have the solid body mounts from here
http://www.pro-touringf-body.com/cha...omponents.html

its coming along and ill get some new pics to update the thread.

usp55 · 04-30-2009, 08:05 PM

4.30.09
small insignificant update just cause i have posted in a while. Frame has a been covered in por15, firewall has a semigloss coat of krylon, engine is painted with Pontiac light blue metallic, inner fenders are also painted semigloss.

solid bushings,chrome valve covers, water pump divider plate, motor mounts, gaskets, and some other things i cant think of at the moment all come tomorrow.

have a question about this rusted out part of the cooling system. on the rear of the engine, passenger side. whats the best way to take care of this problem? those heater hose fits on and i can clamp it without it leaking but id like to fix it.

BonzoHansen · 04-30-2009, 08:27 PM

I think that is a heater hose fitting, if so it screws into the block. Hard to say how thin it is at this point, I guess if it were mine I'd start by soaking PB blasters for a few days and maybe get vise grips on it.

Once it is out you can get mice stainless steel ones.

Very nice progress

usp55 · 04-30-2009, 09:05 PM

thanks bonzo, heater hose nipple its called. just ordered one in.

mc73nova · 04-30-2009, 09:09 PM

nice progress. a little different from the day I saw it!

Slow 88 · 05-02-2009, 02:28 PM

Looking good!

zuuhlsT/A · 05-07-2009, 04:51 PM

So cool you are restoring this! You're taking your time and doing all the work properly. I always rush things and screw them up. Nice job and good luck. Can't wait to see it when it's done!

usp55 · 05-07-2009, 06:54 PM

thanks guys, things should start to move a little faster as i finally recovered from my transmission going on the camaro.

had a quick question. I just got my solid body mounts in and i wasnt aware that i had an option as to how to install the frame back on the car. either stock height, 1/2" lower, or wedge the body (not even sure what that means). what exactly would lowering the frame do? I feel like it would just make the engine sit higher in the bay and cause clearance issues with the hood.

also any tips to getting the frame back on the car and making sure its aligned correctly?

WildBillyT · 05-07-2009, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by usp55

thanks guys, things should start to move a little faster as i finally recovered from my transmission going on the camaro.

had a quick question. I just got my solid body mounts in and i wasnt aware that i had an option as to how to install the frame back on the car. either stock height, 1/2" lower, or wedge the body (not even sure what that means). what exactly would lowering the frame do? I feel like it would just make the engine sit higher in the bay and cause clearance issues with the hood.

also any tips to getting the frame back on the car and making sure its aligned correctly?

You are correct. Everything will move up and it may create clearance issues. Stick with stock height. There are alignment holes next to the big holes on the mounts that correspond to holes on the body. You can use a screwdriver or make pins to get it square.

usp55 · 05-07-2009, 09:35 PM

thanks for the reply, i got it on - well almost. when i took the frame off a few months ago i popped the cage bolt on the pass. side by the firewall. no amount of pb blaster or heat could break it free and i ended up cutting the bolt out. how would u guys go about fixing this problem? the "cage" itself is up and only one side is welded down. the nut is out but has halt a bolt lodged in it. no hardware store has a similar nut. something tells me a normal nylon threaded bolt just isnt gona do the job

should i try to drill out the bolt? or do u have another option. couldnt find it on fastenals website but there is a store near me maybe they can help
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...99600086&Nty=0

also the directions i have that came with my solid mounts does not say anything about lock washers between the long bolts head and the large washer but every article or diagram online relating to poly mounts like energy suspension products includes lock washers. i picked some up but do u need them i guess is the question.

as always i really appreciate all the help from u guys

WildBillyT · 05-08-2009, 01:48 AM

If you can see it (i.e. it's a front mount) then I'd cut out the cage and nut and replace it as a subassembly. That's what I did when I had the '69. I have DSE mounts and bolts on the Nova and I don't think they have lock washers.

usp55 · 05-08-2009, 07:47 AM

ill post a pic if i make it home tonight

BonzoHansen · 05-08-2009, 09:06 AM

Subframe info: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17406

usp55 · 05-08-2009, 09:52 AM

So from what i read the cage itself is not important but really just to make things easier to remove and install. Now the nut is that big to spread the load and so couldnt i just take a large grade 8 washer and nylon threaded nut to do the same?

BonzoHansen · 05-08-2009, 11:43 AM

The cage holds the nut, once tight it is out of the game, so I guess you could. But if you need to remove the bolt for some reason later and can't get a wrench into there then you'll miss the cage.

WildBillyT · 05-08-2009, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

The cage holds the nut, once tight it is out of the game, so I guess you could. But if you need to remove the bolt for some reason later and can't get a wrench into there then you'll miss the cage.

Yep. As above, I'd replace the cage and nut and weld the cage down securely. If you want I guess you could weld a regular nut in there with no cage, but then you can't correct any alignment issues if the nut is off center.

usp55 · 05-08-2009, 12:01 PM

ok im gona run over to fastenal and see if they have something like the square nut.

if not yea i guess ur right id have to remove the fender and inner fender just to get at it. My only question is why would i ever have to move it? I took measurements from the firewall to the tip of the frame before i took it off so aslong as i get it back to those numbers than then everything should line up, should being the key word. plus i dont have anyway to weld that cage down.