I listed to his instruction, it’s just a bitch Bc it’s a small space.
No room in there with the 315s and the drag set up isn’t much small. But I did just think of putting the front runners on be back. That’ll give me plenty of room to reach in there and adjust the link
__________________ 1999 C5 FRC: 12.7@114
2008 TBSS: 12.48@108
2017 Silverado 2500 do you even lift breh?
Street Mode Snuffleupagus activated. switched over to the bigger MAF and bigger intake after driving around on the former maf just to make sure the front end didnt fall off/any other problems.
Race mode elephant trunk will have second half of intake tube to a 4" V stack in grill, ala Chris1313 Prostock.
Still need to adjust the bumper. I just tossed it on real quick so i can leave the car outside. Certainly glad i opted for all slotted tabs for bumper mounting. Should make fitting everything nice a breeze.
Still nothing compared to the piston rings he fried
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1983 camaro- Scrap
1988 camaro- Also scrap
'05 Silverado- You guessed it, scrap
1988 TRX 250R- Ported w/ high compression on 110 octane- Out 60' your LT1
okay so, the car has survived both the drive down to linden, dyno pulls, and drive home.
First we did a hand full of pulls on motor to get the new MAF and intake squared away. during this time, i discovered the summit racing rad cap i have is not up to par. While doing a pull, it blew out leaving coolant all over the place. That cleaning up took a while, but all is well
With the motor pulls wrapped, we turned on the warmer and had a moment of prayer.
Once up to optimal bottle pressure, we started to program the WOT/TPS. Which is were more trouble began. Programming of the RPM and everything went cake. but then when we tried to do the TPS signal, we ran into some issues. The controller would kick on for 5 seconds or so and shut down. I had it wired with a power tap from the radio keyed power, so i assumed maybe that was the issue. Decided to ditch that and just temporarily wire it to constant power. Snipped the power wire and used a butt connector to run a new wire all the way to the fuse box in the front of the car. With an eyelet to the power post that the battery cable runs to. Flipped the arming switch...same crap. Began to panic and assume i had myself a bad WOT/TPS box.
Thankfully cooler heads prevailed and Nish wanted me to check over the wiring diagrams i used, and not the ones on NX website, which he thankfully asked me to bring to the dyno in case something exactly like this was going to happen.
As a safety, i have a fuel pressure safety switch in line right before the rail. The switch triggers ground, particularly the ground for the nitrous controller.
Everything besides the TPS range it programmed no problem, because the car was on and had fuel pressure. The TPS has to be done with the car off so you can set the range by holding the pedal at WOT. The pump would prime, then bleed down, obviously not making any fuel pressure, killing the triggered ground at the Fuel pressure switch.
...i ended up just disconnecting the FPSS and jumping the wires for the remainder of the time. Remind me at the rental to unjump them so i have a FPSS.
Unfortunately i wasnt able to get my bottle refilled on short notice, so i headed into the dyno with less than a full bottle. Thanks to me playing with it, me not having the feed line to the noids not tight, and me showing every one of my friends that stopped by the purge.
We were able to make 4/5 passed on the bottle before we were shooting blanks.
Nitrous on a 4 second ramp, coming in only above 4k, the best pull before not being able to make enough bottle pressure was 552hp.
Each of the 4/5 pulls saw small bumps in power, 7-8hp each time from the very safe first pull tune. all while steadily dropping in bottle pressure.
nice job. pretty good numbers for ya.
I dont (currently) run a fuel pressure safety switch. I might in the future and I know it is recommended, but i've gone through around 30 10lb bottles of n20 and been fine...but I may add one in the future with the next engine. I also don't currently use a window switch or progressive controller or bottle heater. just an arming button, a WOT switch and my thumb to press the spray button on the shifter. I didn't want to complicate it and didn't want to have an over engineered system for a street car.. your is less street so I do see why you have it. glad you got it sorted out though
what are your expectations at racewars ?
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1987 IROC-Z - modified
Last edited by IROCZman15; 11-07-2019 at 05:33 PM.
Alright, so Monday was an over all successful day.
The first passes off the trailer I was a little concerned. For those that don’t remember my best last year was 10.84 @ 124.
I wanted to get a feel for the car and calm the nerves so we started with some motor passes. Car did not even break into the 10s. Passes were:
11.12 @ 120mph - 1.49 60’
11.18 @ 120mph - 1.53 60’
11.07 @ 121mph – 1.48 60’
I did take a lot of weight off the front of the car since the last time it was raced, but I also ended up adding some LBS.
-nitrous system(a full bottle is much heavier than I thought)
-rear drag bar is more beefy than the stock unit
-roll cage
-New Chic-fil-a built by my house about 6 months ago
I was pretty annoyed it didn’t perform the same as last year, but Nishan reminded me about how last years DA was damn near perfect compared to this years crap air. So that made me feel a little better.
With the cobwebs shaken and nerves calmed, it was time to turn on the bottle heater. Progressive turned to 3 second ramp in, controller allowing nitrous to come on from 4,000rpm to 6,500rpm and only at 95% or more throttle.
With the bottle up to 1100, I had a moment of silence for my 10 bolt and headed to the line. While heading up I purged towards the sausage line as I wanted as many witnesses for my demise.
10.58 @ 130 – 1.50 60ft, damn that felt good.
At the line I tried to purge the system again, and got nothing. Thank you for all that helped out diag my lack of purge. As you know, the gram would not be the same without the purge.
Thank you to depicted squad for helping me and realizing without a purge cloud, it doesnt matter how fast the car is.
Next pass we turned the progressive down to 2.5 second ramp in
11.38 @ 120 mph… 1.55 60’ ft.
At first I thought I hurt something, but the log looked fined. We came to realize when I purged, I flipped the switch for the controller off. So that was a on motor pass, with a nitrous tune lol
N2o Pass 3, 2 second ramp in
10.35 @ 130 – 1.43 60’
N2o Pass 4, 1.5 second ramp in
10.32 @ 131 – 1.49 60’
N2o Pass 4, 1.0 second ramp in
10.48 @ 127 – 1.40 60’ This pass killed the bottle, Ran out of nitrous pressure up top. But man, that 1.40 60 felt NICE.
Swapped in a filled bottle and turned on the heater. While waiting for the bottle to heat up, they announced the rental would be ending soon(fuq?) so I headed to the car and got ready for the last pass.
N20 Pass 5, .5 second ramp in
10.16 @ 132 – 1.40 60’
That pass felt amazing. I wanted to make 1 more pass and turn it down to 0 ramp in, but by the time we reviewed the log and got the car cooled it was done. I wish I could have gotten one more pass it, but oh well. Prob better off. Who knows what the nitrous would have done to the 10 bolt with no ramp in.
Thank you to everyone that was there to help me solve the demons I kept running into all day. Those will be sorted out in the near future. Thank you to Adam for having dumb strong fingers to pull fuses out and thank you to my friend Brown for having tiny hands to fix my purge. All the input and advice from all you guys have bought this from a rolling chassis to a car on the cusp of a 9 second slip. You guys are truly the best.