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-   -   Trans Fluid (http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=27047)

Savage_Messiah 06-21-2007 09:50 AM

Trans Fluid
 
What kind should I get? And how much approx. to fill a 4L60E and converter with a cooler attached?

Tru2Chevy 06-21-2007 11:23 AM

Royal purple...not sure how many quarts you need though.

- Justin

SupermanX24 06-21-2007 05:16 PM

3 for the converter and about 7 for the trans. Trust me, I'm on attempt number 3...well 4 now, for my trans. First time, junk yard trans had a bunch of leaks from the seals, that was my first mistake. Second time, Once I had all the leaks gone the trans started slipping after a week. (thank god for that one month warranty). Right now my car is at my job's shop on a lift. First time I had a leak coming from the trans lines, I needed new fittings going to the trans. I didn't wanna drop the trans to put simple fittings in so I left her in there. Put the first one in, good, second one, cracked the case about a half inch.

So now she's back out, and she's got JB weld on there waiting to dry til tomorrow. Anywayyyyy, sorry I had to let that out.

3 for the converter and about 7.5 for the trans. So about 10.5 quarts :wink:

ins0mnia24 06-21-2007 07:48 PM

Depending on the size of the cooler, you are looking at 10-12 QT's..
So I would get 12 just to be on the safe side..
I use Raptor Green Blood fluid
http://www.eatmyshifts.com/pl_4l60e.htm#ATF

SupermanX24 06-22-2007 11:43 AM

http://www.drivetrain.com/4l60e.html

the exact numbers. So I was off about a quart

Pampered-Z 06-25-2007 11:44 AM

make sure you don't mix dino and sethetic. I've always used Redline products and never had problems.

The coverters are a pain to fill. Get as much in as you can before you install it, (1-1.5 Qs ), then once installed you start the car to 10 seconds, shut off, fill, repeat until it's full. If you run it too long without enough fluid you can do damage.

JB

GP99GT 07-03-2007 04:52 PM

honestly for your trans i wouldnt use anything crazy...just a decent brand name ATF dex3/merc would be fine...not sure if royal purple's ATF is as expensive as their oil, but if it is, F that

Savage_Messiah 07-12-2007 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pampered-Z (Post 358303)
make sure you don't mix dino and sethetic. I've always used Redline products and never had problems.

The coverters are a pain to fill. Get as much in as you can before you install it, (1-1.5 Qs ), then once installed you start the car to 10 seconds, shut off, fill, repeat until it's full. If you run it too long without enough fluid you can do damage.

JB

didnt even think of what was in it, dino or synthetic. Can places flush a tranny thats out of the car/converterless?

Savage_Messiah 10-01-2007 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pampered-Z (Post 358303)
make sure you don't mix dino and sethetic. I've always used Redline products and never had problems.

The coverters are a pain to fill. Get as much in as you can before you install it, (1-1.5 Qs ), then once installed you start the car to 10 seconds, shut off, fill, repeat until it's full. If you run it too long without enough fluid you can do damage.

JB

bumpity again... if it's been drained, and there's a little bit of fluid left but not much, and I'm not sure if it's dino or synth and lost touch with the previous owner of the trans, am I fine? Or do I need to start figuring otu a place to take it to get it bone dry

NJSPEEDER 10-01-2007 07:37 PM

i wouldn't worry about bone dry. as long as 99% of the fluid is out you will be fine. royal purple, redline, whatever other brand of synthetic, it's all dex3 so it's all good.

Pampered-Z 10-02-2007 08:58 AM

Sorry for the delay, but yah, what Tim said. If you have access to a compressor you might want to blow out the trans line just to get as much old stuff out as possible. Specially if you broke the old trans and there might be some "stuff" still floating around.


BTW, the bottom trans line into the radiator is the line you want to use to feed the oil cooler. You can remove the hose from the hardline and feed it around the plastic sheilds to the front of car. I remove the battery which will give you access to drill a 3/4" hole in the plastic to route the return line back into the radiator. Hope that makes sense?

Savage_Messiah 10-03-2007 12:09 AM

i was thinkign of picking up one of those trans cooler flush can thingys for the rad. cooler and the lines (which I need fixed, but that's a diff. story. You're saying top line into radiator from trans leave, bottom line (which would be the return from rad to trans right?) becomes feed to aux cooler, than return to trans right???

Pampered-Z 10-03-2007 08:31 AM

Yup. When we did Sweet97Z's that is how CTP told him to connect it.

johnjzjz 10-03-2007 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savage_Messiah (Post 384366)
i was thinkign of picking up one of those trans cooler flush can thingys for the rad. cooler and the lines (which I need fixed, but that's a diff. story. You're saying top line into radiator from trans leave, bottom line (which would be the return from rad to trans right?) becomes feed to aux cooler, than return to trans right???

dont do that -- if you have media trapped in the cooler it will only end up in the trans valve body shift valves - because you dont have the ability to really flush the cooler lines and unit itself -- what we do if its of any use to you is drain the unit if it has a driain plug ( WE weld one in if not ) and do that every oil change for the next 3 or 4 oil changes the drain plug volume from the drain plug will be 75 percent of total and it will in time flush it clean doing it that way - in Bjs or cosco sell penn or castrol dex 3 dont spend the extra zoom to syn oil it does nothing in a trans ( NOTHING ) but cost you twice the money -- we have spent months on a trans dyno looking and wishing for what it might do and nothing was the answer - of course someone knows someone who -- you get the idea -- jz

Savage_Messiah 10-04-2007 12:28 AM

so basically you're saying to only use the auxillary cooler?


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