Below is a list of tasks/upgrades I am hoping to accomplish over the winter season:
(some are self explanatory, but below the list I explain some of them in more detail)
1. Fix crankshaft Pulley/balancer issue
2. Swap O2 sensors side-to-side and compare results
3. Bleed out old brake fluid and put in all new DOT 3.
4. Rear passenger seatbelts stuck (done, I removed them completely last weekend)
5. Install GPS tracking/theft device (Tom Bailey's SICK version)
6. Tighten up hood alignment/gaps
7. Fix rear drivers-side seat base bolt hole (done, turned hole into a threaded post instead)
8. New set of Front MT skinny tires to replace the 9 year old rubber.
9. Swap out all valve cover bolts with longer ones
10. Key/ignition issue still happening
11. Fix exhaust shield edge by muffler/fuel tank (done)
12. Replace rear sway bar with UMI drag-bar
13. Oil and filter change (might swap to 40wt oil, or 10-40, instead of 20-50 VR1)
14. New magnetic in-line Trans filter, check fluid level better
15. A proper set of rear shocks to put on the car for dragstrip days (keep koni yellows for street)
details of some:
1. Crankshaft/balancer issue:
A few weeks ago I heard an erratic "clanging noise" under the hood and traced it down to the front of the engine. Used the screwdriver-trick to "hear" that the noise wasn't coming from inside the engine; started taking off belts for alternator and p.s. pump to see if that changed it. In the process of that, noticed a good amount of free-play at the crank pulley. Wiggled it around and that was the noise; the pulley was no longer contacting the balancer. Looks like the 3 bolts worked their way loose again, and also the crank bolt was loose enough to basically twist by hand. WOAH!
I have the oem pulley from my olde 305 TPI motor on this setup, its just powdercoated for appearance. The threads on the balancer are gacked up pretty good and I no longer can trust putting bolts into those holes, so its time for a new balancer, new bolts, and mayyybe a new pulley, but of the same style.
I have NO current plans to change out the other pulleys on the alt and water pump(serpentine style) and the p.s. pump (v-belt)...unless it will make the whole front accessory drive system better. In a few years time, I might end up re-doing it all again, as I will likely eventually go to a belt-driven vacuum pump, and then all these same components would have to get reworked. Didn't want to do this bigger project just yet (budget reasons) so thats why I am most likely going to just get an ATI super-damper balancer and put the oem pulley back on it, despite a few oblong bolt holes.
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2. Swap o2 sensors side to side:
For quite a while (even a year ago prior to the dyno session) my Holley o2 sensor reads AFR between .5 to almost 2 full points different than the AEM gauge. The holley is on the drivers side and the AEM on the passenger side.
For example, if the holley is reading (and adjusting the AFR) at 12.8, the AEM gauge is usually at 11.3 or somewhere in that range of numbers. This is across the rpm range and at various types of throttle and regular driving. Spark plugs from both sides of the engine are the same. I bought a new replacement sensor for the Holley side (Bosch 17025) after the rental in October and put it in before the last track session (Nov 3) and all it's AFR readings were the same as the previous Bosch 17025. Additionally, I do use those 1" long Oxygen sensor "spacers" that are recommended to be used by some holley guys; essentially it moves the tip of the o2 sensor out of the extreme direct path of exhaust gasses. I'd like to keep using those, because they seems to work fine for me, as I have not ever killed an o2 sensor. I think my plan of attack is just to take each sensor out, swap them side to side, and see if the AFR number discrepancy follows the sensor, OR if the AFR number stays the same on each side of the engine.
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10. Key ignition issue:
I thought I had this tackled last year but then it came back to haunt me again. Having an intermittent issue with the car not wanting to "crank" when the key goes in. Its not the Neutral safety switch either. I do not have VATS and never did have vats. Last year I took apart the steering column, inspected what I could, and also replaced that difficult to access Ignition Switch (Duralast LS309) on the top of the column. Things seemed ok for a few weeks and then the problem came back. I've checked the metal actuator rod also and did as much adjusting as I could. Part of me was thinking that my very worn-down key from 1987 and the ignition cylinder/tumblers might be the problem, so I was considering replacing both. However, I also know that the key does always go in, and the cylinder does always turn, so seemingly it wouldn't be the key as the culprit. Nevertheless, it just doesn't always crank, and when it finally does, it fires right up nice and quick like normal.. so its not a voltage issue either.
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12. Swaybar
Finally ready to call it quits with the wimpy stock 1987 rear swaybar on the rear axle. My probably choice is that UMI adjustable drag-bar that would take some initial figuring-out, but it would also give me the option to set some preload on dragstrip days. I can keep the airbags for when I have a heavily loaded down car on the way to an event, and then bleed them out so that the rear suspension works properly.
https://www.umiperformance.com/2245-...sway-bar-rear/