Getting my new 406 SBC installed, running, and driving

[IROCZman15]

I also do need a set of shocks. I did use those Lakewood 50/50 shocks for a bit a few years ago, but I knew they had their limit, and they are also more of a "multi vehicle" application with valving. You are right, I need something with double adjustments, something like Viking or Afco. This might be possible late spring 2025 after I get some money and cross off a few of the other upcoming tasks.

I'll probably do the drag-bar and keep the air bags. Air bags will be aired-up for the travel to/from the track to keep the ride height safe; and then I will bleed them down to almost nothing at the track.
Thanks man! Also thanks for steering me straight on lots of tech stuff over the years. Much appreciated.

[IROCZman15]

Below is a list of tasks/upgrades I am hoping to accomplish over the winter season:
(some are self explanatory, but below the list I explain some of them in more detail)


1. Fix crankshaft Pulley/balancer issue
2. Swap O2 sensors side-to-side and compare results
3. Bleed out old brake fluid and put in all new DOT 3.
4. Rear passenger seatbelts stuck (done, I removed them completely last weekend)
5. Install GPS tracking/theft device (Tom Bailey's SICK version)
6. Tighten up hood alignment/gaps
7. Fix rear drivers-side seat base bolt hole (done, turned hole into a threaded post instead)
8. New set of Front MT skinny tires to replace the 9 year old rubber.
9. Swap out all valve cover bolts with longer ones
10. Key/ignition issue still happening
11. Fix exhaust shield edge by muffler/fuel tank (done)
12. Replace rear sway bar with UMI drag-bar
13. Oil and filter change (might swap to 40wt oil, or 10-40, instead of 20-50 VR1)
14. New magnetic in-line Trans filter, check fluid level better
15. A proper set of rear shocks to put on the car for dragstrip days (keep koni yellows for street)



details of some:

1. Crankshaft/balancer issue:
A few weeks ago I heard an erratic "clanging noise" under the hood and traced it down to the front of the engine. Used the screwdriver-trick to "hear" that the noise wasn't coming from inside the engine; started taking off belts for alternator and p.s. pump to see if that changed it. In the process of that, noticed a good amount of free-play at the crank pulley. Wiggled it around and that was the noise; the pulley was no longer contacting the balancer. Looks like the 3 bolts worked their way loose again, and also the crank bolt was loose enough to basically twist by hand. WOAH!
I have the oem pulley from my olde 305 TPI motor on this setup, its just powdercoated for appearance. The threads on the balancer are gacked up pretty good and I no longer can trust putting bolts into those holes, so its time for a new balancer, new bolts, and mayyybe a new pulley, but of the same style.
I have NO current plans to change out the other pulleys on the alt and water pump(serpentine style) and the p.s. pump (v-belt)...unless it will make the whole front accessory drive system better. In a few years time, I might end up re-doing it all again, as I will likely eventually go to a belt-driven vacuum pump, and then all these same components would have to get reworked. Didn't want to do this bigger project just yet (budget reasons) so thats why I am most likely going to just get an ATI super-damper balancer and put the oem pulley back on it, despite a few oblong bolt holes.


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2. Swap o2 sensors side to side:
For quite a while (even a year ago prior to the dyno session) my Holley o2 sensor reads AFR between .5 to almost 2 full points different than the AEM gauge. The holley is on the drivers side and the AEM on the passenger side.
For example, if the holley is reading (and adjusting the AFR) at 12.8, the AEM gauge is usually at 11.3 or somewhere in that range of numbers. This is across the rpm range and at various types of throttle and regular driving. Spark plugs from both sides of the engine are the same. I bought a new replacement sensor for the Holley side (Bosch 17025) after the rental in October and put it in before the last track session (Nov 3) and all it's AFR readings were the same as the previous Bosch 17025. Additionally, I do use those 1" long Oxygen sensor "spacers" that are recommended to be used by some holley guys; essentially it moves the tip of the o2 sensor out of the extreme direct path of exhaust gasses. I'd like to keep using those, because they seems to work fine for me, as I have not ever killed an o2 sensor. I think my plan of attack is just to take each sensor out, swap them side to side, and see if the AFR number discrepancy follows the sensor, OR if the AFR number stays the same on each side of the engine.


[/url]





10. Key ignition issue:
I thought I had this tackled last year but then it came back to haunt me again. Having an intermittent issue with the car not wanting to "crank" when the key goes in. Its not the Neutral safety switch either. I do not have VATS and never did have vats. Last year I took apart the steering column, inspected what I could, and also replaced that difficult to access Ignition Switch (Duralast LS309) on the top of the column. Things seemed ok for a few weeks and then the problem came back. I've checked the metal actuator rod also and did as much adjusting as I could. Part of me was thinking that my very worn-down key from 1987 and the ignition cylinder/tumblers might be the problem, so I was considering replacing both. However, I also know that the key does always go in, and the cylinder does always turn, so seemingly it wouldn't be the key as the culprit. Nevertheless, it just doesn't always crank, and when it finally does, it fires right up nice and quick like normal.. so its not a voltage issue either.



[/url]



12. Swaybar
Finally ready to call it quits with the wimpy stock 1987 rear swaybar on the rear axle. My probably choice is that UMI adjustable drag-bar that would take some initial figuring-out, but it would also give me the option to set some preload on dragstrip days. I can keep the airbags for when I have a heavily loaded down car on the way to an event, and then bleed them out so that the rear suspension works properly.
https://www.umiperformance.com/2245-...sway-bar-rear/

[townsend]

Originally Posted by IROCZman15

Below is a list of tasks/upgrades I am hoping to accomplish over the winter season:
(some are self explanatory, but below the list I explain some of them in more detail)


1. Fix crankshaft Pulley/balancer issue
2. Swap O2 sensors side-to-side and compare results
3. Bleed out old brake fluid and put in all new DOT 3.
4. Rear passenger seatbelts stuck (done, I removed them completely last weekend)
5. Install GPS tracking/theft device (Tom Bailey's SICK version)
6. Tighten up hood alignment/gaps
7. Fix rear drivers-side seat base bolt hole (done, turned hole into a threaded post instead)
8. New set of Front MT skinny tires to replace the 9 year old rubber.
9. Swap out all valve cover bolts with longer ones
10. Key/ignition issue still happening
11. Fix exhaust shield edge by muffler/fuel tank (done)
12. Replace rear sway bar with UMI drag-bar
13. Oil and filter change (might swap to 40wt oil, or 10-40, instead of 20-50 VR1)
14. New magnetic in-line Trans filter, check fluid level better
15. A proper set of rear shocks to put on the car for dragstrip days (keep koni yellows for street)



details of some:

1. Crankshaft/balancer issue:
A few weeks ago I heard an erratic "clanging noise" under the hood and traced it down to the front of the engine. Used the screwdriver-trick to "hear" that the noise wasn't coming from inside the engine; started taking off belts for alternator and p.s. pump to see if that changed it. In the process of that, noticed a good amount of free-play at the crank pulley. Wiggled it around and that was the noise; the pulley was no longer contacting the balancer. Looks like the 3 bolts worked their way loose again, and also the crank bolt was loose enough to basically twist by hand. WOAH!
I have the oem pulley from my olde 305 TPI motor on this setup, its just powdercoated for appearance. The threads on the balancer are gacked up pretty good and I no longer can trust putting bolts into those holes, so its time for a new balancer, new bolts, and mayyybe a new pulley, but of the same style.
I have NO current plans to change out the other pulleys on the alt and water pump(serpentine style) and the p.s. pump (v-belt)...unless it will make the whole front accessory drive system better. In a few years time, I might end up re-doing it all again, as I will likely eventually go to a belt-driven vacuum pump, and then all these same components would have to get reworked. Didn't want to do this bigger project just yet (budget reasons) so thats why I am most likely going to just get an ATI super-damper balancer and put the oem pulley back on it, despite a few oblong bolt holes.


[/url]


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2. Swap o2 sensors side to side:
For quite a while (even a year ago prior to the dyno session) my Holley o2 sensor reads AFR between .5 to almost 2 full points different than the AEM gauge. The holley is on the drivers side and the AEM on the passenger side.
For example, if the holley is reading (and adjusting the AFR) at 12.8, the AEM gauge is usually at 11.3 or somewhere in that range of numbers. This is across the rpm range and at various types of throttle and regular driving. Spark plugs from both sides of the engine are the same. I bought a new replacement sensor for the Holley side (Bosch 17025) after the rental in October and put it in before the last track session (Nov 3) and all it's AFR readings were the same as the previous Bosch 17025. Additionally, I do use those 1" long Oxygen sensor "spacers" that are recommended to be used by some holley guys; essentially it moves the tip of the o2 sensor out of the extreme direct path of exhaust gasses. I'd like to keep using those, because they seems to work fine for me, as I have not ever killed an o2 sensor. I think my plan of attack is just to take each sensor out, swap them side to side, and see if the AFR number discrepancy follows the sensor, OR if the AFR number stays the same on each side of the engine.


[/url]





10. Key ignition issue:
I thought I had this tackled last year but then it came back to haunt me again. Having an intermittent issue with the car not wanting to "crank" when the key goes in. Its not the Neutral safety switch either. I do not have VATS and never did have vats. Last year I took apart the steering column, inspected what I could, and also replaced that difficult to access Ignition Switch (Duralast LS309) on the top of the column. Things seemed ok for a few weeks and then the problem came back. I've checked the metal actuator rod also and did as much adjusting as I could. Part of me was thinking that my very worn-down key from 1987 and the ignition cylinder/tumblers might be the problem, so I was considering replacing both. However, I also know that the key does always go in, and the cylinder does always turn, so seemingly it wouldn't be the key as the culprit. Nevertheless, it just doesn't always crank, and when it finally does, it fires right up nice and quick like normal.. so its not a voltage issue either.



[/url]



12. Swaybar
Finally ready to call it quits with the wimpy stock 1987 rear swaybar on the rear axle. My probably choice is that UMI adjustable drag-bar that would take some initial figuring-out, but it would also give me the option to set some preload on dragstrip days. I can keep the airbags for when I have a heavily loaded down car on the way to an event, and then bleed them out so that the rear suspension works properly.
https://www.umiperformance.com/2245-...sway-bar-rear/

quick jump in on the holley vs aem sensor readings. aem sensors are not calibrated the same as the holley sensors, the holley sensors have a resistor in them (per rob katz at rk tuning)

we saw this on osies procharged car with the terminator x max. the only way i got it to read closer was use a 2015 focus st upstream wideband o2 (ntk) brand for the aem and it was within .2 of the ntk

[The_Bishop]

Just be aware that putting a stiff rear sway bar in for drag racing purposes will have a detrimental effect on handling. The rear of the car will be twitchy and prone to swinging out in hard cornering.

[townsend]

Originally Posted by The_Bishop

Just be aware that putting a stiff rear sway bar in for drag racing purposes will have a detrimental effect on handling. The rear of the car will be twitchy and prone to swinging out in hard cornering.

yea, this is definitely true when on street wheels. when im on my drag wheels on the street i dont push turns anyway (skinnies and no front sway) but yea dave i agree.

although the umi stock style drag bar didnt make our black camaro too twitchy. that car has a front sway and koni's/umi lowering springs

[The_Bishop]

I was mostly pointing it out because if I remember right, he'd done some autocross type stuff before. Might be mistaken about that, though.

[townsend]

Originally Posted by The_Bishop

I was mostly pointing it out because if I remember right, he'd done some autocross type stuff before. Might be mistaken about that, though.

good points

[IROCZman15]

thats freakin awesome info there about the O2 sensor issue! If thats the case, I'll be thrilled. I've been moderately disappointed to not have "matching" AFR numbers on each gauge, so this could be a huge success. How in the world did you figure out to use that specific sensor for the fix!?!?

I did some initial research a while ago abotu the pros/cons of the drag bar vs bigger sway bar but I have a lot more to go, so feel free to keep it coming! You are correct about the autocross aspect of the car, but I think I had my fun on the autocross courses during those 6 years of doing some events. The car WILL get back there one day, but it's not in the plans for this year, so hardcore cornering is off the table for a bit. I have a few more drag-racing goals to keep working on, including possibly Hot Rod Drag-Week 2025.



I did read that the bar made by Wolf Racecraft is one of the best, but that it is VERY touchy and tricky on the street. I am still determining other companies/products to research, but my thought was that I could have it set "neutral for street use" and then adjust it for dragstrip preload, then bring it back to neutral for the drive home.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/orga...racecraft.html


I'll keep the old oem bar and brackets/mounts here in the garage in case I need to switch back for any reason.
Any advice on all of this is much appreciated!

[townsend]

Originally Posted by IROCZman15

thats freakin awesome info there about the O2 sensor issue! If thats the case, I'll be thrilled. I've been moderately disappointed to not have "matching" AFR numbers on each gauge, so this could be a huge success. How in the world did you figure out to use that specific sensor for the fix!?!?

I did some initial research a while ago abotu the pros/cons of the drag bar vs bigger sway bar but I have a lot more to go, so feel free to keep it coming! You are correct about the autocross aspect of the car, but I think I had my fun on the autocross courses during those 6 years of doing some events. The car WILL get back there one day, but it's not in the plans for this year, so hardcore cornering is off the table for a bit. I have a few more drag-racing goals to keep working on, including possibly Hot Rod Drag-Week 2025.



I did read that the bar made by Wolf Racecraft is one of the best, but that it is VERY touchy and tricky on the street. I am still determining other companies/products to research, but my thought was that I could have it set "neutral for street use" and then adjust it for dragstrip preload, then bring it back to neutral for the drive home.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/orga...racecraft.html


I'll keep the old oem bar and brackets/mounts here in the garage in case I need to switch back for any reason.
Any advice on all of this is much appreciated!

Wolfe racecraft is sadly no longer in business

osies umi bar has 2 adjustment holes as well. we kept it on the longer ones. ill say this, my spohn bar is definitely stiffer than the umi one, and its still a stock style. i dont think youll have any issues with a stock style bent one

the holley sensor is an ntk, thats why lol

[IROCZman15]

Yea, I am leaning heavily towards the UMI one, and they have a 10% off sale for another week so I might snag it up. I didn't really look into any of those other "non-bent" ones like TRZ motorsports sells which require a relocated fuel tank etc. So I was between the UMI bar (#2245) , the Steinjager bar (#J0030952), the Midwest chassis bar and the Spohn bar. I didn't realize Wolf was no longer around either.


UMI: https://www.umiperformance.com/2245-...sway-bar-rear/
TRZ: https://www.trzmotorsports.com/produ...-bar-assembly/





good info about the sensor for the AEM gauge. The other day I went out and swapped the sensors from side-to-side. The lower numbers followed the AEM gauge, so at least that gives me peace of mind that its not something drastic. I'll probably order that 2015 Focus ST upstream sensor in the coming week. Thanks
I am still wondering if my +1" tall oxygen sensor extenders might not play nice with the AEM sensor, So I considered taking the extender off of that sensor only, but I have yet to do so.

extender: https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/...4jg92InYil7Rr0







I dug into the world of engine dampers a bit and after coming up with a few options, I called ATI Performance Products today.

My current balancer is a PB PowerBond Racing 1012SS 29261 which is 6.113" in diameter and weighs 6.92 pounds. It is SFI 18.1 rated. The threads are stripped out pretty darn good for the 3 pully bolts, so this balancer is done for.

The callies compstar crank snout is 1.245" in diameter with a single-keyway.


ATI steered me away from the heavier steel dampers, and suggested their Aluminum 7" diameter damper which weighs in at 4.45 pounds total, and an inertia weight of 3.7 pounds. It is part number 917221 and is a 3 ring setup which incorporates a lighter inertia ring compared to the traditional setup. I learned that the weight of the inertia rig is more critical than the overall weight of the whole damper. I was also told that transmission converter lockup should not cause any issues with the damper, even if I am using lockup on the 150 nitrous shot.

ATI also sells a new timing pointer assembly for the 7" balancer, part number 918954.
I wanted to get a longer crank bolt since I checked my current one and it only goes in 4.5 turns of the snout due to its under-head length, so I need something longer. I see ARP sells some, even in 12 point head configuration, I will just have to take some measurements. ATI said Blue locktite on the 3 bolts and also the main bolt.

Links:

chart: https://www.atiracing.com/products/d...s/damchevy.htm
damper: https://www.jegs.com/i/ATI/085/917221/10002/-1
timing pointer: https://www.jegs.com/i/ATI/085/918954/10002/-1

[townsend]

Originally Posted by IROCZman15

Yea, I am leaning heavily towards the UMI one, and they have a 10% off sale for another week so I might snag it up. I didn't really look into any of those other "non-bent" ones like TRZ motorsports sells which require a relocated fuel tank etc. So I was between the UMI bar (#2245) , the Steinjager bar (#J0030952), the Midwest chassis bar and the Spohn bar. I didn't realize Wolf was no longer around either.


UMI: https://www.umiperformance.com/2245-...sway-bar-rear/
TRZ: https://www.trzmotorsports.com/produ...-bar-assembly/





good info about the sensor for the AEM gauge. The other day I went out and swapped the sensors from side-to-side. The lower numbers followed the AEM gauge, so at least that gives me peace of mind that its not something drastic. I'll probably order that 2015 Focus ST upstream sensor in the coming week. Thanks
I am still wondering if my +1" tall oxygen sensor extenders might not play nice with the AEM sensor, So I considered taking the extender off of that sensor only, but I have yet to do so.

extender: https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/...4jg92InYil7Rr0







I dug into the world of engine dampers a bit and after coming up with a few options, I called ATI Performance Products today.

My current balancer is a PB PowerBond Racing 1012SS 29261 which is 6.113" in diameter and weighs 6.92 pounds. It is SFI 18.1 rated. The threads are stripped out pretty darn good for the 3 pully bolts, so this balancer is done for.

The callies compstar crank snout is 1.245" in diameter with a single-keyway.


ATI steered me away from the heavier steel dampers, and suggested their Aluminum 7" diameter damper which weighs in at 4.45 pounds total, and an inertia weight of 3.7 pounds. It is part number 917221 and is a 3 ring setup which incorporates a lighter inertia ring compared to the traditional setup. I learned that the weight of the inertia rig is more critical than the overall weight of the whole damper. I was also told that transmission converter lockup should not cause any issues with the damper, even if I am using lockup on the 150 nitrous shot.

ATI also sells a new timing pointer assembly for the 7" balancer, part number 918954.
I wanted to get a longer crank bolt since I checked my current one and it only goes in 4.5 turns of the snout due to its under-head length, so I need something longer. I see ARP sells some, even in 12 point head configuration, I will just have to take some measurements. ATI said Blue locktite on the 3 bolts and also the main bolt.

Links:

chart: https://www.atiracing.com/products/d...s/damchevy.htm
damper: https://www.jegs.com/i/ATI/085/917221/10002/-1
timing pointer: https://www.jegs.com/i/ATI/085/918954/10002/-1

you should not be using an o2 extender on your wideband, those are for trying to fool pcm's for po420 on obd2 car downstream sensors (ie when you delete cats)

your wideband should be right in the exhaust stream. ditch the extender. i didnt realize thats what you meant by extender

i have the spohn bent bar on my car. it works so far, but i did need to add decent preload to it

[IROCZman15]

Was able to get some progress done in recent weeks on some of the projects and other winter maintenance.

One of the first things to get sorted out was the balancer/pulley situation. Ordered an ATI 917221 Super Damper which is much lighter and stronger than the PB unit (2 threaded holes striped out of PB unit). Got the proper balancer pointer (ATI 918954) and a longer crank bolt (ARP 234-2501) . Extreme difficulty getting it to seat back all the way, multiple tries on multiple days. eventually a little bit of filing by hand, adjusting the key in the keyway on the crank, heating the balancer to 250 deg in my wife's oven, and blasting some cold nitrous at the crank snout, lubing the snout and it went on; fully seated! Blue loctite on the bolts and triple check measurements.






Decided to FINALLY scrap the old oem steel crank pulley and the oem water pump pulley. Never realized how heavy those are until I had these new March pulleys as a comparison. In order to help the alternator survive, the underdrive pulleys were mathematically a great idea. Instead of a 7" crank pulley , its now 22% underdrive, via a 5.5" crank pulley. Alternator now spins at 2.75:1 ratio instead of a 3.5:1 ratio like before. Used nice new arp bolts (430-6802) for the water pump pulley and the ATI provided bolts for the crank pulley. Got new shorter belts; contintental 4050400 (40" 5 rib) and a Dayco 15345 (34.5" v belt).






My Champion radiator developed a small leak during the fall season, and thankfully Champion has a lifetime free-replacement warranty. I had a leak in another champion back in 2021 and thats when this radiator arrived. So, again, Champion sent me a brand new CC951 radiator (3 row) for free and I dropped it in along with brand new hoses (Upper E71208 Lower D71131) and I put the steel springs inside each hose like usual. Used some new hose clamps that have a nicer design that doesn't dig into the rubber of the hose (Mishimoto Smart-seal).
Reused most of the Evans coolant that I drained out and topped it off with some fresh Evans.





Oil change, stuck with Valvoline VR1 20-50 for now, but probably in the future I'll likely change that.
Decided to go with a different oil filter; Baldwin B279 which comes highly recommended in the aftermarket sbc world.
The nylon/plastic washer at the Moroso drain plug had a small crack in it, which was slowly leaking oil, so I replaced the whole drain plug since I couldn't find only the nylon washer. Still would like to find it, or maybe a copper washer alternative to keep as a spare.






Replaced the two transmission fluid filters. The in-line Magnefine filter by the second trans cooler came out clean. Fluid also drained nice colored and clean from the pan drain plug. Dropped the trans pan and put in a new wide filter (A74010) and felpro gasket TOS 18663. Refilled the system most of the way with a blend of AMSOIL synthetic ATF and soem CATerpillar trans fluid.


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Bought a "carb screen" to put on when I am at the track instead of running a fully open throttle body. Intensity racing products #IRP4150LP for $105. Looks great, fits great, and its good piece of mind (I'll probably remove the sticker on it soon).






Pulled the valve covers off while I put in some longer 1/4-20 bolts. Three of the holes had gakked-up threads so I gently chased the threads before installing ARP 611-1000 fasteners which are 1/4-20 x1" long.










Removed the Oxygen sensor bung extenders. They were a total of 1" long and since I am only spraying wimpy nitrous shots, my oxygen sensors should survive.


Next up will be to bleed out all the old brake fluid from the car, service the brake sliders and calipers too.

[townsend]

nice work, and now you should actually have a decent afr reading without the extenders. i dont run extenders on 200+. o2's are fine.

ever try the moroso 22459 oil filters? i have been running them on everything performance now, and they definitely have more consistent pressure than k&n mobil 1 etc. i stopped running baldwin on my duramax, they changed something with that one atleast.

[Blackbirdws6]

Looking fresh as always. Was the hub always a pain to get on? I've had my fair share of those battles...

Guess I should post up some of my winter maintenance granted I didn't take too many pics along the way.

[IROCZman15]

I think that moroso filter number came up during one of my searches actually; but no I have not ran one of those. I had been running the Napa 21060 since I got the engine back in Feb. 2020. I'll keep the moroso one you mentioned as another good option for next fluid change. Looks to be about $28 on amazon.


Man, that freakin hub was a pain, but I have no info about if it was ever an ultra-tight fit initially because I have never had to operate on the damper or hub until now after 5 years. So, as much as it sucked, I'm glad I didn't half ass it and regret it later on.





I got some more stuff crossed off my winter-work list,

1. Fix crankshaft Pulley/balancer issue (done)
2. Swap O2 sensors side-to-side and compare results (unresolved still)
3. Bleed out old brake fluid and put in all new DOT 3. (done)
4. Rear passenger seatbelts stuck (done, I removed them completely last weekend)
5. Install GPS tracking/theft device (done)
6. Tighten up hood alignment/gaps
7. Fix rear drivers-side seat base bolt hole (done)
8. New set of Front MT skinny tires to replace the 9 year old rubber. (next winter)
9. Swap out all valve cover bolts with longer ones (done)
10. Key/ignition issue still happening (unresolved still)
11. Fix exhaust shield edge by muffler/fuel tank (done)
12. Replace rear sway bar with UMI drag-bar (done)
13. Oil and filter change (might swap to 40wt oil, or 10-40, instead of 20-50 VR1) (done)
14. New magnetic in-line Trans filter, check fluid level better (done)
15. A proper set of rear shocks to put on the car for dragstrip days (keep koni yellows for street) (probably in the summer)



The new UMI anti-roll bar is installed, and I am going to keep the endlinks on the "inside" hole until I can get to the track and see how much body roll there is with the new bar. If there is still an issue, I will move the endlinks to the outboard hole position, which makes it firmer. I am aware that the endlinks are kicked at an angle, and I measured it to be at 14deg from plumb. UMI says this is within acceptable territory, so I will keep it as it. The bar is perfectly level from side to side, but depending on how/where I measure it, it is 15 deg kicked-down towards the nose of the car. The endlinks are both adjusted exactly the same, and I am almost completely maxed out on available threads to shorten them. I did not load any pre-load in the passenger side endlink; will re-evaluate at the track. It feels good on the street, but thats not any real test. I took some measurements from the flat ground up to each endlink connection point and both sides were 7". Measurements from the ground to both body-mounting surfaces is 9". And lastly from the ground to the flat segment of the bar that goes right under the diff-cover, that is 6.5". No idea what all that means but I measured it anyways!



















Took the car out for a few brief local drives and it felt good. Probably only have about 45 miles on it so far with no new surprise issues. Engine does seem to want to rev-up quicker; likely a bonus from the new damper/pulleys.
The Brake system got all new DOT-3 fluid and all calipers were bled out.

Still stuck with three problems:
1. The ever present slow drip of oil at the rear-main seal area which causes the oil to sling around the flexplate and onto stuff like the starter and bellhousing.
2. Also, I checked over a bunch of stuff related to my intermittent "no crank" when turning the key. I'd say it happens 1 out of 15 times, and its random. Not an issue with heat soak at the starter or anything with the PRNDL or Neutral safety switch. I have been in the column, even considered swapping out the ignition cylinder and ignition key too, but the key ALWAYS turns and that makes me think its not key related. Last year I replaced the ignition switch module thats on top of the column under the dash and I thought that solved it, but turns out it hadn't. It's just an ongoing troubleshooting battle still at this point.

3. The discrepancy in the Oxygen sensor readings from gauge to gauge. Having swapped sensors from side to side under the car,and removed the extenders, I am still getting mis-matched readings on the Holley vs. AEM gauge. Townsend helped me out with a part number for a new sensor that will help bring the AEM numbers into closer range of the Holley sensors. I ordered it, and hope to get it on the car soon.



All that aside, I'd like to get more miles on this car sometime soon, and of course I'd like to get some timeslips at the track too. Finding free time is hard to come by recently

[3.4 grape of wrath]

Hey, just curious after installing the anti roll bar did you pick up a lot of rear end noise? I recently installed a BMR anti roll bar and noticed some noise, especially during gear changes.The bar works great but the noise got to me. I ended up removing the lower heim joints and replaced with poly bushings.I had similar cranking issues for years and ended up going to a heavier gauge starter wire and ground. I also replaced the started solenoid and seemed to do the trick.

[IROCZman15]

hmm, no I have not. Drove the car twice since my last post, once was just this morning. Don't have any new or enhanced noises that I know of. You mean gear-whine type of noise or vibration/resonance through the car?


I should think about that old starter wire and its sizing. Actually, I have an amp-meter now, I can maybe get a reading on it during cranking. I make things difficult to troubleshoot with keeping wiring hidden and covered in split-loom so it’s a tedious task when troubleshooting this whole endeavor. Perhaps one day a remote mounted starter solenoid like the ford kinds.


Huge thanks to Townsend, you steered me right with the NTK 24334 sensor to replace the one connected to my AEM A-pillar gauge. I got the sensor installed yesterday and took the car for a drive today. The gauge readings are now within .1 .2 and .3 throughout the rpm range. I can much better live with that visually instead of trying to do the math on the fly at WOT. That's a checklist item thats more than a year overdue. Whew.

[3.4 grape of wrath]

More of a banging noise when trans shifts and going over bumps. I do have preload on the bar.