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01-14-2007, 09:39 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Edison
Posts: 7,856
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Propper way to install a camshaft.
Hey guys, Ive gone as far as removing heads and a cam, but i wont be using that motor, and I would like to know the right way to do it, I have no heads, no distributor or anything fyi. I basically want to know how to do it so it doesnt mess any thing up. thanks
matt
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1984 Firebird
2000 Z28
2023 Tacoma
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01-14-2007, 10:41 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 3,047
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Get three long threaded bolts (I think it's 3/8-16 thread, but check to be sure), and screw them into the end of the cam to make a nice handle. Have lots of moly lube on the cam (if it's not a roller), guide it in as straight as possible, and very slowly. DON'T FORCE IT! It will go all the way in; you may have to spin it, or rock it just slightly to get it past the cam bearings.
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Seeya,
Steve R. in North Jersey
'16 Go-Mango Dodge Charger R/T. It's so good to be back in a V8-powered, RWD car!
Former Toy - '88 Monte SS - had lots of mods...
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01-15-2007, 08:35 AM
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#3
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11 Second Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Fishkill, NY
Posts: 1,278
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That's how I do it, or you can spring for a cam install handle if you want to get "fancy".
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-Nick
9/11/01- Never Forget
2002 Pontiac Trans-Am WS6 # 206
Chasing 10's
469RWH/437RWTQ
11.05 @ 123
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01-15-2007, 10:07 AM
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#4
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Co-Founder / Site Admin
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ewing, NJ
Posts: 22,476
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My cam install handle is an old timing gear. It's easy to hold onto.
- Justin
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1999 Camry - Beigemobile DD
2002 Suburban - Wife's DD
2004 Grand Cherokee - Not running / Project / Selling?
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01-15-2007, 10:29 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Edison
Posts: 7,856
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i shouldve elaborated.
I mean with lining the marks up, and top dead center, I can easily un bolt everything and then just install it, but I need to know the proper way so its done right and doesnt cause problems later on.
__________________
1984 Firebird
2000 Z28
2023 Tacoma
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01-15-2007, 11:20 AM
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#6
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Sliderule / Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Catawissa PA
Posts: 2,294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayFast84
i shouldve elaborated.
I mean with lining the marks up, and top dead center, I can easily un bolt everything and then just install it, but I need to know the proper way so its done right and doesnt cause problems later on.
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Yes, but what everyone is trying to tell you is that FIRST when you remove and install the cam you must be very careful! Go easy, DO NOT FORCE IT. You need to be very gental if you nick the cam or the cam bearing even ever so slightly you run a very good chance of trashing the motor! When removing installing you will need to carefully rotate the cam as it can hang-up on the lobes and bearings. Also when you install it use pleanty of lube on the bearing!
Also keep everything very clean! Any dirt or grit that gets in there can quickly destroy an engine.
Once the cam is installed, you rotage the crank so that the dot on the crank gear is straight up ( 12 o'clock ). The cam is installed with the dot on the cam gear facing straight down ( 6 o'clock ). So both dots need to be exactly pointing at each other. They cannot be off, if one tooth off the engine will not run properly.
When you do this the distributors gets installed with the rotor pointing towards the #1 spark plug which should put you close for you base timing for start up.
JB
__________________
93Z M6 Black: The 385 Lives! Supercharged, 3-core front mount intercooler, GTP heads, 3:73's, Street twin clutch, Jethot Longtubes, Mufflex 4" catback/spintech, S+W cage, Spohn Suspenion, Yada Yada Yada
1) Build it
2) Race it
3) Break it
4) Repeat!!!
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01-15-2007, 04:09 PM
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#7
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11 second club / Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 7,148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pampered-Z
Yes, but what everyone is trying to tell you is that FIRST when you remove and install the cam you must be very careful! Go easy, DO NOT FORCE IT. You need to be very gental if you nick the cam or the cam bearing even ever so slightly you run a very good chance of trashing the motor! When removing installing you will need to carefully rotate the cam as it can hang-up on the lobes and bearings. Also when you install it use pleanty of lube on the bearing!
Also keep everything very clean! Any dirt or grit that gets in there can quickly destroy an engine.
Once the cam is installed, you rotage the crank so that the dot on the crank gear is straight up ( 12 o'clock ). The cam is installed with the dot on the cam gear facing straight down ( 6 o'clock ). So both dots need to be exactly pointing at each other. They cannot be off, if one tooth off the engine will not run properly.
When you do this the distributors gets installed with the rotor pointing towards the #1 spark plug which should put you close for you base timing for start up.
JB
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he pretty much nailed it ....
__________________
2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57
1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85
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01-15-2007, 06:44 PM
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#8
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.
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pampered-Z
Yes, but what everyone is trying to tell you is that FIRST when you remove and install the cam you must be very careful! Go easy, DO NOT FORCE IT. You need to be very gental if you nick the cam or the cam bearing even ever so slightly you run a very good chance of trashing the motor! When removing installing you will need to carefully rotate the cam as it can hang-up on the lobes and bearings. Also when you install it use pleanty of lube on the bearing!
Also keep everything very clean! Any dirt or grit that gets in there can quickly destroy an engine.
Once the cam is installed, you rotage the crank so that the dot on the crank gear is straight up ( 12 o'clock ). The cam is installed with the dot on the cam gear facing straight down ( 6 o'clock ). So both dots need to be exactly pointing at each other. They cannot be off, if one tooth off the engine will not run properly.
When you do this the distributors gets installed with the rotor pointing towards the #1 spark plug which should put you close for you base timing for start up.
JB
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on a Chevy small or big block the dots on the cam gear ( 6 O'Clock ) and the crank gear are at ( 12 O'Clock ) the cam is on overlap so dist installed on # 1 will be 180* out ----- set the dist on # 6 ----- or rotate the motor over so the dots are upside down cam gear 12 O'Clock & crank gear 6 O'Clock but many people have told you to get a book ---- u will screw it up dude if you don't -- jz
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01-15-2007, 07:12 PM
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#9
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11 second club / Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 7,148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnjzjz
on a Chevy small or big block the dots on the cam gear ( 6 O'Clock ) and the crank gear are at ( 12 O'Clock ) the cam is on overlap so dist installed on # 1 will be 180* out ----- set the dist on # 6 ----- or rotate the motor over so the dots are upside down cam gear 12 O'Clock & crank gear 6 O'Clock but many people have told you to get a book ---- u will screw it up dude if you don't -- jz
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hmm, most likely your right. I always set valve lash then put the distributor in so i dunno....
__________________
2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57
1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85
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01-15-2007, 08:03 PM
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#10
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.
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,385
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all cams are ground so # one - is on TDC with dots in place -- its the way you start to degree the cam with a wheel -- never seen a motor that did not start with # 1 and cam on overlap -- its the way it is --
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01-15-2007, 08:16 PM
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#11
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11 second club / Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 7,148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnjzjz
all cams are ground so # one - is on TDC with dots in place -- its the way you start to degree the cam with a wheel -- never seen a motor that did not start with # 1 and cam on overlap -- its the way it is --
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ah, you are wise in the way of things.... 
__________________
2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57
1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85
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01-16-2007, 06:09 AM
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#12
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11 Second Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Fishkill, NY
Posts: 1,278
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I still have that book.....
__________________
-Nick
9/11/01- Never Forget
2002 Pontiac Trans-Am WS6 # 206
Chasing 10's
469RWH/437RWTQ
11.05 @ 123
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01-16-2007, 08:17 AM
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#13
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Batman
I still have that book.....
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Vent Windows Forever!
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.
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Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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01-16-2007, 09:08 AM
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#14
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Sliderule / Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Catawissa PA
Posts: 2,294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnjzjz
all cams are ground so # one - is on TDC with dots in place -- its the way you start to degree the cam with a wheel -- never seen a motor that did not start with # 1 and cam on overlap -- its the way it is --
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Thank you for correcting me. Guess it's been longer then I thought since I actually worked on a engine with a real distributor, too may LT1s I guess?
Wayfast, sorry about my misinformation as well!
__________________
93Z M6 Black: The 385 Lives! Supercharged, 3-core front mount intercooler, GTP heads, 3:73's, Street twin clutch, Jethot Longtubes, Mufflex 4" catback/spintech, S+W cage, Spohn Suspenion, Yada Yada Yada
1) Build it
2) Race it
3) Break it
4) Repeat!!!
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01-16-2007, 04:37 PM
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#15
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.
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pampered-Z
Thank you for correcting me. Guess it's been longer then I thought since I actually worked on a engine with a real distributor, too may LT1s I guess?
Wayfast, sorry about my misinformation as well!
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many many have ended up with the dist in 180 out as a result of that fact -- didnt want to step on you answer -- but i do this almost every day -- jz
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01-16-2007, 05:18 PM
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#16
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Sliderule / Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Catawissa PA
Posts: 2,294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnjzjz
many many have ended up with the dist in 180 out as a result of that fact -- didnt want to step on you answer -- but i do this almost every day -- jz
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No problem! Glad you caught it before Matt ended up spending an afternoon or late night frustrated cause of me!
John
__________________
93Z M6 Black: The 385 Lives! Supercharged, 3-core front mount intercooler, GTP heads, 3:73's, Street twin clutch, Jethot Longtubes, Mufflex 4" catback/spintech, S+W cage, Spohn Suspenion, Yada Yada Yada
1) Build it
2) Race it
3) Break it
4) Repeat!!!
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01-16-2007, 06:36 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Old Bridge, NJ
Posts: 932
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great info. I learn alot on these forums. So much for spending 20G's on tech school...
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01-16-2007, 08:02 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SupermanX24
great info. I learn alot on these forums. So much for spending 20G's on tech school...
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I am doing this over 40 years and today i learned something new i did not know before -- the money was not thrown in the air if you use your mind --
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