Looking to relocate my battery to the trunk

[98tadriver]

this time i believe i have the proper wire to do so

And should i hook the wire directly to the starter instead of splicing it in with the existing hotwire? If so, should i run a seperate 4 ga wire to the altenator wire?

if i remember correctly this was either 1 or 2 gauge wire, from advance auto, fine strand

[NJSPEEDER]

check on the Mr.Gasket web site. i know they used to have the wiring schematics for their battery relo kits available for download.

[BonzoHansen]

http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml

[98tadriver]

thanks for the help fellas! while the T/A sits here waiting for a clutch, i will start on putting the wire in my car

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
2ga wire there in that kit, i should be ok!

[BonzoHansen]

Bigger is better. You can get 0/1 at marine stores.

You race, right? You need some kind of cutoff switch, correct?

[98tadriver]

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

Bigger is better. You can get 0/1 at marine stores.

You race, right? You need some kind of cutoff switch, correct?

i dont race professionally or anything. what would i need a cut off switch for?

got her done tonight too! seems to start/run fine i cant drive it anywhere since my clutch is broken, but i turned the highbeams on , heater on max, rear defrost, turnsignal and hit the brakes at the same time, seems to be good

[Tru2Chevy]

To be NHRA legal, anytime you move the battery from it's stock location, you need a clearly marked cutoff switch.

- Justin

[BonzoHansen]

What he said - I thought tech inspectors jumped on that one.

So, did you use a solenoid by the battery or something? You don't have an unfused battery cable running the length of the car, right?

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

What he said - I thought tech inspectors jumped on that one.

So, did you use a solenoid by the battery or something? You don't have an unfused battery cable running the length of the car, right?

They do. I was going to jump in with that as well.

I installed the moroso reloc kit and switch in my bro's Chevelle, it is pretty good stuff and installation was easy. Just remember that the cutoff switch also has to kill the alternator (not that I've ever run into that problem)

[98tadriver]

i see what you are saying, but they cant see that i relocated it- unless theyre poking around under the hood

[Pampered-Z]

Originally Posted by 98tadriver

i see what you are saying, but they cant see that i relocated it- unless theyre poking around under the hood

One of the things a tech inspector should be checking is that the batt is secured. I've seen a battery break loose and pure acid on the track! If the tech isn't even checking the basic things like that I'd be afraid as to what else he/she might be letting race in the lane next to you!

To be NHRA legal you need a certified batt box ( sealed and vents outside the car ), cut off switch that kills the engine and is marked as to how it operates: Push off, marked on/off position if rotating switch.

[98tadriver]

Not to jinx myself, but ive never been hassled by the tech inspect. i have a basic bolt-on street car that hasnt even broke into the 11s yet. i dont think they are worried about my car my battery is quite secure too

[Savage_Messiah]

atco doesnt have tech inspection, lol

trunk mounted battery = extra weight.

[98tadriver]

Originally Posted by Savage_Messiah

atco doesnt have tech inspection, lol

trunk mounted battery = extra weight.

the most they looked at my car was when they wrote my number on the windows

extra weight, lol it might be like 5extra lbs. i have a plastic box holding the battery, and the wire doesnt way much. the way i see it, thats a 32lb battery off of the front and onto the back for a lil better weight transfer

[ar0ck]

I think Kasey wants you to buy one of those tiny batteries, I think they are motorcycle ones? Someone correct me if Im wrong.

[BonzoHansen]

You mean an Odyssey?

[j0n]

ron your best bet, if you were to be nhra legal, would be to buy an extra crappy tailight, drill a hole in it, and apply on/off decals directly to that tail and have your switch come out the hole. tailights in our cars are easily swapped out so you could spend 10 minutes doing it before you get there.

however...atco's tech inspection is writing the numbers on your windows and commenting on how cool it is that when i pull pool plugs out my right tips the car gets louder

[Blacdout96]

Originally Posted by Savage_Messiah

atco doesnt have tech inspection, lol

Yeah I hear that. I once took my 3000 there and they looked at it and said what do you think yoll pull wiht it, I said maybe 16's, and he just waved me thru.....real pros they are, thus y this year they had all those freakign cars leave s*** all over the track every three runs. Oh by the way, If I remember my history rigth wiht batteries in the back, you need to find a way to vent it. Shelbys had a problem way back when. and I qoute from the book, Muscle Car Legends;" In the beginning, Shelby American mounted the autolite battery in the right side of the trunk. After recieving owner complaints about fumes and corrosion, the company installed the now-rare Cobra vent caps. The final forty percent of the 1965 GT-350 production found the batteries in the standard underhood location". So best find a way not to breath in that acid.

[Savage_Messiah]

Originally Posted by 98tadriver

the most they looked at my car was when they wrote my number on the windows

extra weight, lol it might be like 5extra lbs. i have a plastic box holding the battery, and the wire doesnt way much. the way i see it, thats a 32lb battery off of the front and onto the back for a lil better weight transfer

umm... what guage wiring are you using?

[chrisfrom nj]

ron the battery in the trunk would help you do better burnouts

[98tadriver]

Originally Posted by Savage_Messiah

umm... what guage wiring are you using?

2 gauge, just like the kits on summit have that wire doesnt weigh much at all