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Old 03-19-2007, 07:17 PM   #1
GREZ28
 
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Question Help on Gauges install, questions.

2.1/16 Water temp & Oil temp for a 2 pod pilar. Color code on the the gauge wires are Red, Orng, Blk, Grn, Wht.
Sending units, Red & Blk.
Need to make sure what I am looking at.
Is it hard to install?
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Old 03-19-2007, 07:52 PM   #2
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Not hard. I assume they are electrical gauges? What brand?
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Old 03-19-2007, 08:15 PM   #3
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Yep electrical, Summit brand.
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Old 03-20-2007, 08:48 AM   #4
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5 wires? On my autometer gauges the oil temp was one wire on the sending unit and the other was just a ground?

I would call Summit for the specs.

Sounds like Red/Blk are for the sending units, Of the other 3 two should be for the lights, I assume the 5th wire is a ground.


Without looking at the instructions, on other gauges,,,

For any ground wires from the sending units you want to connect them to a good engine ground ( where the straps go from the engine to the frame. There is one on the driver's side in the head by the coil, on the passenger side there are ground wires above the starter ( PITA to get to ).

For ground wires on the gauge If you remove the kick panel there is a post you can use for your ground wires.

but don't just take my word. With 5 wires you may need to run both wires back to the gauge and then use a seperate wire as the grounding.

Tie into the fuse block for a power supply that goes on when the key is on, for the gauge lights tie onto the grey wire on the headlight wire harness ( Grey is the dimmer wire. )

Now, when you build your wiring harness leave at least a foot of extra wire so that if you ever need to pull the piller out you'll have enough wire that you won't need to disconnect anything.

If you don't one already, any local parts store should sell a fairly inexpensive tool set for doing elec. work that will contain a tester, wire stripper and an assortment of connectors. ( Since I'm so anal about the car, I don't use connectors, I soider all my connections.

FYI, Eastwood sells interior paint that matches our cars if you have grey interior and want the pod to match.

My .02

JB
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File Type: jpg gauge pod.JPG (32.7 KB, 14 views)
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Last edited by Pampered-Z; 03-20-2007 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 03-20-2007, 05:38 PM   #5
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what kinda gauge wire will i need?
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Old 03-20-2007, 06:00 PM   #6
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Ok, so on the sending units you think that the red should hook up with red on gauges and blk is grnd. What kind of gauge wire do I need?
The water temp gauge, can I use both at the same time (stock) or no?
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Old 03-21-2007, 08:10 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pampered-Z View Post
I would call Summit for the specs.

Without looking at the instructions, on other gauges,,,

but don't just take my word.
Like I said, your better off calling Summit and getting the proper instructions and not guessing. The instruction will tell you what gauge wire and what size fuse you should use.

As far as the temp gauge, I don't LSx engines, but on LT1s and older there is a plug in the passenger side head between the #6 and #8 plug you can remove and install the water temp gauge in there.

Oil temp should be in the pan. I run a Canton pan so it came with a tapped fitting for the sensor. Unless you want to use one of the plugs in the block, but that would also meassuge the block temp so it won't be as accurate.
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Old 03-21-2007, 03:58 PM   #8
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I do have an LT1. How much was the pan you have if you dont mind.
Do you apply anything on the sending units on instalation.
Sorry for all these questions I must be making you crazy with this but it is helping me to get an idea about this new field I am in. I will be calling summit for the specs too.
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Old 03-22-2007, 10:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GREZ28 View Post
I must be making you crazy
Your too late! Wife's been doing it for 24 years!

Well for the pan, you'll need to pull the engine or drop the K-member to install it, and you'll looking at a $350 price tag for the Pan and pickup tube, then you need gaskets too! so you might just use the port above the oil filter. Not the best place, but it will work somewhat.

For the water temp: You need to check that the sending unit is the same size as the port in the head or you may need to purchase an adapter. The port is on the pass head between the back two spark plugs. I think the plug will fit a 3/8" or 1/2" drive so a short extension and breaker bar will remove it. It's usually in there pretty good so you should use a quality tools. Craftsman etc., I’ve broken a few of the cheap-o rackets and extension trying to pull these type of plugs out.

The sending unit should have teflon on the threads already. If not, go to a parts store and but a tube and coat the threads lightly. When you pull the plug out, allot of antifreeze will be pouring out! Your going to make a mess if your not quick.


Once you have the two sending units installed, you have two options here. Either way you opt’d for using mechanics wire to fish the lines makes the job easier.

A) There is a harness on the Drivers side by the brake bboster you can try to run the wires thru, I never had any luck doing this on my car. ( for my boost gauge and
linelock I used option B: )

B) Locate a good spot somewhere near where the brake peddle passes thru the firewall and drill a hole for the wires. Make sure you double and triple check before you start drilling. Then install a grommet and run the wire through.

C) Pull the EMC from the mount (2 10MM bolts) and swing it out of the way. You’ll see a large rubber grommet where the wires pass from the engine compartment thru the firewall and into the passenger compartment. You’ll then need to remove the passenger side kickplate (4-5 Phillips screws). It’s part of the sill plate that hold the carpet down and the entire panel should pull out. Using a piece of 3-4’ mechanics wire push it from the engine side thru the grommet. The wire will come out under the dash. Sometimes this can be a PITA to find it. If all else fails ther is room on the grommet to make another hole, run the sires thru the put some sealant around the hole you made. Then remove the covers under the dash and route the wires over to the Driver's side ( i think the dash is covers at 8MM bolts?)(i used this method for my oil pressure and temp gauges that are mounted in my console). Nice because no drilling required.

Starting in the engine compartment push the mechanics wire thru. Once you have the mechanics wire thru, secure the wires for the sending units to the end and pull them thru.

Then just connect the wires per the instructions.

For the gauge pod, if it is the one that attached to the factor piller conver, sit in the car and figure out how you want it mounted. Then mark the location and remove the cover. It’s held in by 3-4 clips, start in the back by where the shoulder harness belt is and carefully pull it of the clips working towards the front of the car. Once off you then need to drill a 1/2” size hole to run the wires from the dash behind the cover, then into the gauge pod. So a fairly large hole because you’ll be running the gauge wires plus a power and ground for the lights.

I have an Autometer Pod. It came with 4 plastic pins to connect it. I didn’t like the look so I used a hot glue gun to attach it, use plastic body filler to blend it into the piller cover. I then use Eastwood’s sandless primer and interior paint to make it all match.
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93Z M6 Black: The 385 Lives! Supercharged, 3-core front mount intercooler, GTP heads, 3:73's, Street twin clutch, Jethot Longtubes, Mufflex 4" catback/spintech, S+W cage, Spohn Suspenion, Yada Yada Yada

1) Build it
2) Race it
3) Break it
4) Repeat!!!

Last edited by Pampered-Z; 03-22-2007 at 10:17 AM.
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Old 03-22-2007, 08:55 PM   #10
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Damn, and I thought I was the only one here about the wife thingy! And now were due in May with are 2nd and you must know what I am going through!

Anyway, got the info on the gauges here. Me numnuts here thought that I didn't have the specs but I had missplaced them.
The wires on the gauges are shown as:
Grn- sender
Red- Ignition switch
Blk- Ground
Wht- Headlight Switch
Orange-Batery

The Temp sensor:
Red signal that connects to Grn on the gauge
Blk ground.

The instructions for the gauge say to connect the red to 12V power source (ignition switch).
Blk to ground.
Orange to 12V power source (battery)
Wht to headlight switch.
And the Grn to the Red on sender.

This reminds me the way hooked up my fog lights on my blazer.
I guess you could say it is the easy way to go around if you dont want to mess around with the fuse box hu.
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Old 04-02-2007, 04:09 PM   #11
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Hey pamperd-Z. The only plug i see for the water temp sending unit between them 2 spark plugs as you said looks like an alen key? Is that it?

Last edited by GREZ28; 04-03-2007 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 04-03-2007, 03:34 PM   #12
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Normally it's square, you can see it on the head in the pic, it about 4" from the bottom of the head, between the two spark plug holes and below the exhaust ports.

http://www.97transam.com/harold/IMG_0248_pic.jpg
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Old 04-06-2007, 03:22 PM   #13
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Ok, I think I got everything under control now. Thanks for all the info..
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