oil pump driveshaft

[WayFast84]

Does any one make driveshafts for the the 400sbc? I dont want to have mine machined. Its to much of a hassle to go over there comeback and then go there to pick it up since i dont drive.

It must be ready to go! no machining required.

[johnjzjz]

i will look i might have one if not i will get you a part # and a product name for one - normally 12 bucks or so i know i bought them from competion products who is cheaper and has better stuff than jegs and summit -- jz

[WayFast84]

thanks jz, i bought a driveshaft from summit that said was for a 400 but on the back it said it needed machining!

[Tru2Chevy]

Originally Posted by WayFast84

thanks jz, i bought a driveshaft from summit that said was for a 400 but on the back it said it needed machining!

Yea, I think I mentioned that to you in another thread. I am looking for a shaft that doesn't require machining either. I haven't gotten off my duff to call Jegs or Summit and ask about them yet though.

John, I'd be interested in the info you have about them as well.

Thanks.

- Justin

[WayFast84]

Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy

Yea, I think I mentioned that to you in another thread. I am looking for a shaft that doesn't require machining either. I haven't gotten off my duff to call Jegs or Summit and ask about them yet though.

John, I'd be interested in the info you have about them as well.

Thanks.

- Justin

If we cant find anything, I have an extra hardened driveshaft I have to return, if you want Ill bring them both and get them machined, and You can pay for the shaft and the machining and Ill give it to you the next time i see you.

[Tru2Chevy]

Originally Posted by WayFast84

If we cant find anything, I have an extra hardened driveshaft I have to return, if you want Ill bring them both and get them machined, and You can pay for the shaft and the machining and Ill give it to you the next time i see you.

My motor is already together, in the car, and running....It's not coming back out now to go to a machine shop. If I can't find a shaft that'll fit I'm sticking with a stock-style one and watching the oil pressure guage like a hawk.

- Justin

[johnjzjz]

Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy

My motor is already together, in the car, and running....It's not coming back out now to go to a machine shop. If I can't find a shaft that'll fit I'm sticking with a stock-style one and watching the oil pressure guage like a hawk.

- Justin

OK -- ARP and melling do not need moding to work -- in some cases the pump shaft clears the block - what happenes is the shaft rubs on the bearing cap or the cavity of the block to the pump - NOTE : the 400 motors had very bad core shift and as such it was determined to make a shaft just for them - the blocks 2 and 4 bolt were the same and the after market shafts almost all work -- install pump, shaft and dist, and turn it if its totally free your in -- jz

[WayFast84]

Im having mine machined.. I dont have a melling, i have a moroso.. And Im not risking it, the cars been down a year, I dont need it to be down another year cause of a little thing. Thanks for the info John!!!

[Tru2Chevy]

Originally Posted by johnjzjz

OK -- ARP and melling do not need moding to work -- in some cases the pump shaft clears the block - what happenes is the shaft rubs on the bearing cap or the cavity of the block to the pump - NOTE : the 400 motors had very bad core shift and as such it was determined to make a shaft just for them - the blocks 2 and 4 bolt were the same and the after market shafts almost all work -- install pump, shaft and dist, and turn it if its totally free your in -- jz

So you say that both the standard ARP and Melling shafts should work fine in a 400 block, but check that the shaft spins freely to be sure due to the notorious core shift issues with 400 blocks?

As I said above, my motor is already together and running with the stock pump and shaft, I just thought that it would be a good idea to replace it while I'm putting a new oil pan and gaskets on.

To test the shaft, would it be ok to install the new pump and shaft, and then just try spinning the shaft with a screwdriver, or should I pull the cam gear off of the distributor before installing it and test it that way?

- Justin

[johnjzjz]

Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy

So you say that both the standard ARP and Melling shafts should work fine in a 400 block, but check that the shaft spins freely to be sure due to the notorious core shift issues with 400 blocks?

As I said above, my motor is already together and running with the stock pump and shaft, I just thought that it would be a good idea to replace it while I'm putting a new oil pan and gaskets on.

To test the shaft, would it be ok to install the new pump and shaft, and then just try spinning the shaft with a screwdriver, or should I pull the cam gear off of the distributor before installing it and test it that way?

- Justin

nope that wont work the dizy centers the whole assembly -- cam gear mesh is taken into account as well note i read what you said and i am guessing you used the original 400 shaft and put a new or re used the plastic couple that retains the two -- correct - if so you are ok the oem shaft clears ???/// jz

ps -- the oem type pump works well with plastic conector even the Z28 pump its only when you high volumn the pump that steel sleave couple is the thing -- jz

[Tru2Chevy]

Right now I have the stock shaft, plastic coupler, and pump in the motor - but the pump is being replaced by this:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_80734_-1

I suppose I will try to install the shaft that comes with it and see if that works.

Thanks John.

- Justin

[johnjzjz]

Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy

Right now I have the stock shaft, plastic coupler, and pump in the motor - but the pump is being replaced by this:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_80734_-1

I suppose I will try to install the shaft that comes with it and see if that works.

Thanks John.

- Justin

Hey the shaft in the picture is the one you need -- it is necked down and not just a tube with the same diameter top to bottom -- NOTE the pump in the picture is a high volumn and the pickup is a bolt on -- i have seen the bolt on pickups fall offffff into the pan bottom -- if you have ever seen a road race preped bike or car you will see that after the bolts on calipers and such after they are lock tighted and torqued they are also safty wired the bolts that is -- corner drill the 2 - 1/4 -20 bolts or if made over seas 6mm -- run the .025 wire in the direction of tightening and couple them together if you know what i mean -- to be sure they dont fall out -- also use the right stuff - black silicone from locktight on the face of the gaskets if supplied just a very small smear is all you want just enough to thin cover the parts --- jz

[Tru2Chevy]

Originally Posted by johnjzjz

Hey the shaft in the picture is the one you need -- it is necked down and not just a tube with the same diameter top to bottom -- NOTE the pump in the picture is a high volumn and the pickup is a bolt on -- i have seen the bolt on pickups fall offffff into the pan bottom -- if you have ever seen a road race preped bike or car you will see that after the bolts on calipers and such after they are lock tighted and torqued they are also safty wired the bolts that is -- corner drill the 2 - 1/4 -20 bolts or if made over seas 6mm -- run the .025 wire in the direction of tightening and couple them together if you know what i mean -- to be sure they dont fall out -- also use the right stuff - black silicone from locktight on the face of the gaskets if supplied just a very small smear is all you want just enough to thin cover the parts --- jz

Ok, good to know that that should be the correct shaft.

I plan on tack welding the pickup to the pump, and I already use Right Stuff for all my gasket-making needs

Thanks for the help John!

- Justin

[johnjzjz]

Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy

Ok, good to know that that should be the correct shaft.

I plan on tack welding the pickup to the pump, and I already use Right Stuff for all my gasket-making needs

Thanks for the help John!

- Justin

NOPE you cant do that -- welding the bolt on is a mistake -- just do what was susgested to do and you will be fine -- note the area around the bolt on is not at all like the press in and it will give you problems -- jz

[Tru2Chevy]

Gotcha....thanks again John.

- Justin

[WayFast84]

I brought the driveshaft that came with the pump to my machinist and he said it didnt need any machine work.. hopefully the engine will get done this week

[WayFast84]

What is the spring and little pin for?

[WayFast84]

How do I fix the driveshaft slipping off the oil pump? do I need to get a plastic sleeve like the other one? Should I bring the oil pump and driveshaft into a part store and ask for a sleeve that will fit? I feel dumb.

[johnjzjz]

Originally Posted by WayFast84

How do I fix the driveshaft slipping off the oil pump? do I need to get a plastic sleeve like the other one? Should I bring the oil pump and driveshaft into a part store and ask for a sleeve that will fit? I feel dumb.

Good question --m but you have the block upside down and the intake is not on so the shaft will always fall twards dizzy - put a dab of grease on the metal to metal couple and forget about it till you put the pan on than use a large long screwdriver to turn the shaft till it drops in the pump slot -- how come you are assembling it with out cleaning the oil pan gruve on the bearing cap all must be very clean and free of crud if you dont want oil leaks note a small brass brush like a tooth brush is the best to use so if you miss a small piece its not steel in the pan its soft brass -- jz

[WayFast84]

im not installing it, Im just trying to figure out how things work, hardcorez28 is going to do the final assembly so everything is done right. I need the car to run asap so I can justify getting my permit.