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			01-25-2014, 09:48 AM
			
			
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			#1
			
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				Join Date: Dec 2009 
				Location: milltown 
				
				
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				main cap girdle/support
			 
			 
			
		
		
		
			
			i have a 2 bolt main block, i dont need a 4 bolt main for what i plan on doing and the deal i got on the 2 bolt was too good to pass up. 
my dad suggested a main cap girdle, after reading up it seems to be more of a old school thing and something that isnt really popular anymore. im not sure if its because they are not effective or just the fact that a 4 bolt main is alot easier to be had now a days. 
 
my question is, it it worth it for the added stability for the lower end, or am i just wasting money that could be put somewhere else? they are not terribly expensive and seems like a good investment 
 
here is a link 
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/140853689134...witem=&vxp=mtr
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				__________________ 
				2002 Camaro Sunset Orange Mettalic, V6, 5spd, bilstein HD shocks and struts, eibach pro lowering kit, eibach f/r sway bars, lakewood PHB, UMI 2 point subframe connectors, energy suspensions poly master bushing kit 
daily econobox and first car
 
1986 IROC-Z, T56, MGW shifter, Heads, Cam, Holley Stealth Ram 350, t-top, tubular LCA with relo brackets, adjustable PHB, belltech sway bars, ground control weight jacks, SLP mid length headers, 3in w/borla XR1, RIP 3 10 bolts, 12.7 @ 109 so far.. atleast its faster than stock    SOLD
1971 Camaro LS3/T56/9in, cam only and still carbed, RIP 2 10 bolts, 11.62@121
 
03 Blazer 2 door - salt sponge
			  
		
		
		
		
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			01-25-2014, 09:51 AM
			
			
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			#2
			
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			 Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin 
			
						
			
			
				
			
			
				 
                                        
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			Waste IMO. Just get a 4 bolt block if you are concerned.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
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			01-25-2014, 10:30 AM
			
			
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			#3
			
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				Join Date: Dec 2009 
				Location: milltown 
				
				
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			im not concerned about the integrity of my set up. they are cheap if it helps then why not? the reason i ask is there is hardly any info about them on the web, idk if its because they are a waste or the fact that 4 bolts are so easy to get people just dont need them. they seem to be fairly popular with ford guys and imports but not with SBCs. the only real info ive seen were old school hot rodders using them, the logical reason for this is because 4 bolts were more difficult to get back in the day.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				__________________ 
				2002 Camaro Sunset Orange Mettalic, V6, 5spd, bilstein HD shocks and struts, eibach pro lowering kit, eibach f/r sway bars, lakewood PHB, UMI 2 point subframe connectors, energy suspensions poly master bushing kit 
daily econobox and first car
 
1986 IROC-Z, T56, MGW shifter, Heads, Cam, Holley Stealth Ram 350, t-top, tubular LCA with relo brackets, adjustable PHB, belltech sway bars, ground control weight jacks, SLP mid length headers, 3in w/borla XR1, RIP 3 10 bolts, 12.7 @ 109 so far.. atleast its faster than stock    SOLD
1971 Camaro LS3/T56/9in, cam only and still carbed, RIP 2 10 bolts, 11.62@121
 
03 Blazer 2 door - salt sponge
			  
		
		
		
		
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			01-25-2014, 12:54 PM
			
			
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			#4
			
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				Join Date: Sep 2008 
				Location: Hackettstown, NJ 
				
				
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			Cheap is all relative. Money spent on something that doesn't do anything is just wasted. Also, depending on the girdle, you could be looking at a new oil pan. Windage trays usually don't fit with girdles, either.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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				1998 Z-28 - SLP lid - Ported TB - LS6 Intake - Dynatech SS headers/Catted Y - Magnaflow Exh - 3.42 - Yank SS3600 - UMI weld-in subframe connectors, Adj LCA, Adj PHB, Q1A TA - Bolt-in Relocation Brackets - Strano springs - Koni shocks - 17" C6Z06 wheels - 326HP/335ft-lbs - 12.35 @ 110.41
 
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					Originally Posted by  Blackbirdws6
					 
				 
				I can appreciate a dream but this person needed some real friends. 
			
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			01-25-2014, 12:56 PM
			
			
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			#5
			
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			 Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin 
			
						
			
			
				
			
			
				 
                                        
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					Originally Posted by  redsoxsstink
					 
				 
				im not concerned about the integrity of my set up. they are cheap if it helps then why not? the reason i ask is there is hardly any info about them on the web, idk if its because they are a waste or the fact that 4 bolts are so easy to get people just dont need them. they seem to be fairly popular with ford guys and imports but not with SBCs. the only real info ive seen were old school hot rodders using them, the logical reason for this is because 4 bolts were more difficult to get back in the day. 
			
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 I've seen many 4 bolt blocks sell for $75...
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
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			01-25-2014, 02:02 PM
			
			
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			#6
			
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				Join Date: Nov 2012 
				Location: Millstone, NJ 
				
				
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			They dont hurt to have but you need a new pan n crap
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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				94 TA GT. Stock 350, cam, exhaust
			 
		
		
		
		
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			01-25-2014, 03:06 PM
			
			
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			#7
			
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				Join Date: Jun 2007 
				Location: Arm pit of the world... NJ 
				
				
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			How could you go wrong for less than $60.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				__________________ 
				John
			 
		
		
		
		
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			01-25-2014, 03:10 PM
			
			
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			#8
			
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				Join Date: Dec 2009 
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			got a new block assembled with new rotating assembly for $400. find me roller 350 unmolested that costs $75 bucks local that wont need to be shipped ill go buy it 
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					Originally Posted by  Featherburner
					 
				 
				How could you go wrong for less than $60. 
			
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 thats what im saying
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				__________________ 
				2002 Camaro Sunset Orange Mettalic, V6, 5spd, bilstein HD shocks and struts, eibach pro lowering kit, eibach f/r sway bars, lakewood PHB, UMI 2 point subframe connectors, energy suspensions poly master bushing kit 
daily econobox and first car
 
1986 IROC-Z, T56, MGW shifter, Heads, Cam, Holley Stealth Ram 350, t-top, tubular LCA with relo brackets, adjustable PHB, belltech sway bars, ground control weight jacks, SLP mid length headers, 3in w/borla XR1, RIP 3 10 bolts, 12.7 @ 109 so far.. atleast its faster than stock    SOLD
1971 Camaro LS3/T56/9in, cam only and still carbed, RIP 2 10 bolts, 11.62@121
 
03 Blazer 2 door - salt sponge
			  
		
		
		
		
		
			
				  
				
					
						Last edited by redsoxsstink; 01-25-2014 at 03:12 PM.
					
					
				
			
		
		
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			01-25-2014, 04:49 PM
			
			
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			#9
			
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			 Mongo the Meet Coordinator 
			
						
			
			
				
			
			
				 
                                        
				Join Date: May 2008 
				
				
				
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			Buy ARP studs and be done with it.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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					Originally Posted by  KirkEvil
					 
				 
				repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home 
			
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			01-26-2014, 09:45 AM
			
			
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			#10
			
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				Join Date: May 2013 
				
				
				
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			You do realize that a 4 bolt main isn't totally 4 bolt main , the front and rear caps are 2 bolts , if your not running 500 hp at 9,000 rpm's I wouldn't worry about it , just put ARP studs in it and it won't move
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			01-26-2014, 02:50 PM
			
			
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			#11
			
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			 Meet Coordinator 
			
						
			
			
				
			
			
				 
                                        
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				Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach 
				
				
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			I'm not too bright with the engineering stuff but I don't see how it does anything? I understand what people think it will do, I don't see it doing it. What is the power goal of this motor? What is the max rpm? If the bottom end was assembled properly with parts that were checked to be within spec, I can't see it becoming an issue at the power/rpm I assume you will be seeing.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
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			01-26-2014, 10:30 PM
			
			
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			#12
			
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			 9 Second Club 
			
						
			
			
				
			
			
				 
                                        
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	Quote: 
	
	
		
			
				
					Originally Posted by  sweetbmxrider
					 
				 
				I'm not too bright with the engineering stuff but I don't see how it does anything? I understand what people think it will do, I don't see it doing it. What is the power goal of this motor? What is the max rpm? If the bottom end was assembled properly with parts that were checked to be within spec, I can't see it becoming an issue at the power/rpm I assume you will be seeing. 
			
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 Agreed.
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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				Twisted  Minds  Racing
  
2000 SS M6 
9.71 @ 142
			  
		
		
		
		
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			02-02-2014, 10:19 AM
			
			
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			#13
			
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			 Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin 
			
						
			
			
				
			
			
				 
                                        
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			Just FYI, if you stud it you should have the block align-honed.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
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			02-02-2014, 12:44 PM
			
			
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			#14
			
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				Join Date: Jun 2007 
				Location: Arm pit of the world... NJ 
				
				
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	Quote: 
	
	
		
			
				
					Originally Posted by  Featherburner
					 
				 
				How could you go wrong for less than $60. 
			
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					Originally Posted by  redsoxsstink
					 
				 
				thats what im saying 
			
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 Sorry if it wasn't painfully obvious but my response was sarcasm! I would go with ARP studs and have it align bored and honed and call it a day.
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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				John
			 
		
		
		
		
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			02-02-2014, 08:43 PM
			
			
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			#15
			
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				Join Date: May 2012 
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	Quote: 
	
	
		
			
				
					Originally Posted by  Featherburner
					 
				 
				Sorry if it wasn't painfully obvious but my response was sarcasm! I would go with ARP studs and have it align bored and honed and call it a day. 
			
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 Agreed.
 
While this girdle is available, it is not something to bother with. If you had a 3.8 GN motor, then I would say go for the girdle, which actually helps keep the bottom end together at higher HP levels.
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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				1984 Camaro: 350 Auto, Global West Suspension, Baer Brakes, CTW Wheels 
1989 GTA: Bolt-on L98. Global West Suspension, full Magnaflow exhaust, Wilwood Brakes, CTW Wheels
			 
		
		
		
		
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