I hate NJ inspection... and need some help - Page 2 - NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds

Teds89IROC · 10-31-2005, 08:47 PM

the best is to get 2 people. Have your wheel off with newspaper all around and make sure you get the proper size wrench and are turning in the correct direction..don't strip them..don't ask me why I included that

have someone inside the car pump the brakes up till they are hard and have them keep the pressure on. loosen the valve and air (if there is any) will shoot out and then fluid will shoot out. You repeat this till the only thing that comes out is a stream of fluid, no bubbles or anything. They sell self bleeder valves, but personally I wouldn't trust them. You could also buy a plastic hose that will fit over the valve..loosen the valve first, slap the hose on and have the other end in a constainer of brake fluid..then pump the pedal yourself and the air will be pushed out and the only thing that can get sucked back in is brake fluid. I think getting another person is easier.

~Ted

qwikz28 · 10-31-2005, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savage_Messiah

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teds89IROC

Try contacting Jim from exhaustguys (or whatever their name is on ther boards, I forget) Â*~Ted

good call

and it's newbie question time, can anyone give me a step-by-step for brake bleeding??

i have a brake bleeder kit that i bought for the isuzu and never used cause my bleeder screw fell off. i bought it for 45 if you wanna buy it off me for like 20 bucks. it just makes it possible to bleed your brakes by yourself, thats all

qwikz28 · 10-31-2005, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savage_Messiah

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teds89IROC

Try contacting Jim from exhaustguys (or whatever their name is on ther boards, I forget) Â*~Ted

good call

and it's newbie question time, can anyone give me a step-by-step for brake bleeding??

i have a brake bleeder kit that i bought for the isuzu and never used cause my bleeder screw fell off. i bought it for 45 if you wanna buy it off me for like 20 bucks. it just makes it possible to bleed your brakes by yourself, thats all

JL8Jeff · 10-31-2005, 09:03 PM

The rear brakes don't do much braking on these cars and if your rotors and pads are worn pretty bad then the fronts will be doing almost 95-100% of the braking and that's probably why they said the front was too tight. Get new pads and rotors for the rear and it will probably balance out a lot better but it still might need bleeding.

JL8Jeff · 10-31-2005, 09:03 PM

The rear brakes don't do much braking on these cars and if your rotors and pads are worn pretty bad then the fronts will be doing almost 95-100% of the braking and that's probably why they said the front was too tight. Get new pads and rotors for the rear and it will probably balance out a lot better but it still might need bleeding.

Savage_Messiah · 10-31-2005, 09:45 PM

sounds good except where would I find the bleeder valve

Savage_Messiah · 10-31-2005, 09:45 PM

sounds good except where would I find the bleeder valve

The Fixer · 10-31-2005, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JL8Jeff

The rear brakes don't do much braking on these cars and if your rotors and pads are worn pretty bad then the fronts will be doing almost 95-100% of the braking and that's probably why they said the front was too tight. Â*Get new pads and rotors for the rear and it will probably balance out a lot better but it still might need bleeding.

That's what I was thinking. The front pads are ~new, and really good ones. If it's not pulling to one side or the other, I agree with Jeff and say it's actually that the rear brakes aren't strong enough. Time for new pads and rotors out back maybe?

And Kasey, the bleeder valves are on the calipers. They are probably 10mm nuts with a hole and short tube on them for the brake fluid to come out of. I believe they're on the top, but I could be wrong.

The Fixer · 10-31-2005, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JL8Jeff

The rear brakes don't do much braking on these cars and if your rotors and pads are worn pretty bad then the fronts will be doing almost 95-100% of the braking and that's probably why they said the front was too tight. Â*Get new pads and rotors for the rear and it will probably balance out a lot better but it still might need bleeding.

That's what I was thinking. The front pads are ~new, and really good ones. If it's not pulling to one side or the other, I agree with Jeff and say it's actually that the rear brakes aren't strong enough. Time for new pads and rotors out back maybe?

And Kasey, the bleeder valves are on the calipers. They are probably 10mm nuts with a hole and short tube on them for the brake fluid to come out of. I believe they're on the top, but I could be wrong.

GP99GT · 10-31-2005, 10:54 PM

make sure you turn those bleeders VERY carefully...snap one off and youll be having lots of fun

GP99GT · 10-31-2005, 10:54 PM

make sure you turn those bleeders VERY carefully...snap one off and youll be having lots of fun

Savage_Messiah · 10-31-2005, 11:12 PM

thanks guys... hey steve i doubt I can still cut the rear rotors, think i need new ones, but either way you have a free day where you can call up dynamic again??

Savage_Messiah · 10-31-2005, 11:12 PM

thanks guys... hey steve i doubt I can still cut the rear rotors, think i need new ones, but either way you have a free day where you can call up dynamic again??

BigAls87Z28 · 11-01-2005, 12:33 AM

WTF? I passed with my Catco high flow cat and Hooker cat back on my 87 Z 2 years ago, and no one raised a stink about the exhaust. AND it passed inspection.

BigAls87Z28 · 11-01-2005, 12:33 AM

WTF? I passed with my Catco high flow cat and Hooker cat back on my 87 Z 2 years ago, and no one raised a stink about the exhaust. AND it passed inspection.

The Fixer · 11-01-2005, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savage_Messiah

thanks guys... hey steve i doubt I can still cut the rear rotors, think i need new ones, but either way you have a free day where you can call up dynamic again?? Â*

I think so buddy, but we'll have to do it soon. It's gonna get coooooooold out there!

BigAls87Z28 · 11-01-2005, 09:34 AM

Rotors and pads? CAKE Walk, especialy for the rears.

camaroracer1992 · 11-01-2005, 10:00 AM

damn im so glad i live in PA, id fail the inspection soooooooooo bad haha

Koll · 11-01-2005, 10:17 AM

I failed for loud exhaust. WOOT WOOT.

Too bad its 50 state legal and not even all that loud.

The Fixer · 11-01-2005, 12:29 PM

I don't understand how the DMV can assess how loud someone's exhaust is inside a long concrete building with 2 or 3 other cars running at the same time? Â*Assholian, IMO.

foff667 · 11-01-2005, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigAls87Z28

Rotors and pads? Â*CAKE Walk, especialy for the rears.

I think the fronts are easier IMHO I hate doing rears.

foff667 · 11-01-2005, 12:38 PM

btw rear rotors $14 or $22 each through autozone & ~$13 for pads.

Savage_Messiah · 11-04-2005, 08:53 PM

these pads are f'in TINY!!!

Teds89IROC · 11-04-2005, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savage_Messiah

these pads are f'in TINY!!!

JM says: "so are you little man!!!"

~Ted

JL8Jeff · 11-04-2005, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savage_Messiah

these pads are f'in TINY!!!

Yup, the rear brakes don't do that much work on the F-body but if properly bled with new pads/rotors, they work great! I've been driving my 96 all week and it has new pads/rotors and it stops awesome! I just got back in my 88 4Runner and almost ran through the first stop sign! These brakes are horrible. Looks like time for an upgrade because I doubt they'll pass inspection in June.