POS won't start again

[Tsar]

Originally Posted by misterjuice

it doesn't crank at all..........no clicking no nothing.....we had a jump pack on it, and still no crank....POS

i know you said it before but it sounds like a starter, i just replaced mine like a month ago. and it was doing the same...

[misterjuice]

yeah but he replaced it this past Sat with a new one............it started on that day...several times.

I'm thinking it may be wiring/electrical. We'll have to get a volt meter on that thing.....

[Tsar]

well i was just saying...

[Slow 88]

This may sound stupid but did you recheck all the connections goin to the starter to make sure that they are not loose? That is not uncommon.

[misterjuice]

you have to ask him..........I don't get my hands dirty... I just supervise and make sure he doesn't kill himself too bad........

[turbo96z28]

it really sounds to me like the new starter might be a defect.

[Ian]

Try hitting the starter with a hammer while the key is in the cranking position. if it catches eventually, you need a new starter.

[foff667]

or a bigger hammer

[V]

if you want, im gonna be around this weekend, i could come take a look at it. i do know electrical systems. I custom wired a tpi harness into a monte, several remote mount starter solenoids in GM vehicles, a hot rod complete harness wired to a oem bronco dash setup, etc. I'll lay under the car and test wires, get dirty, and i got a volt meter. i just figured i'd offer.

[JL8Jeff]

Sounds like an electrical problem that could be killing starters. The car was fine for dyno day, then you made some changes to wiring and now 2 starters don't work right. I don't think the starters are the problem(unless the wiring problem killed them). I had a problem with one of my old Toyota 4Runners when the neutral safety switch got worn out. One time it would crank and start and then nothing at all. If all your lights come on in the dash but you get no attempt at the solenoid trying to engage then it's a problem with the wiring to the starter and solenoid which could be the neutral safety switch. Check the power lead to the solenoid when the key is turned to crank and check the power to the starter from the battery for enough voltage. What's the voltage reading at the battery itself?

[Koll]

Did you try jumping the starter with a screwdriver? Theres a method (its hard to explain I just know how to do it) there you jump 2 terminals on the starter and it will tell you if its the starter.

[Tru2Chevy]

Ever think that it could be something in the column? My car does that sometimes, I'll turn the key, and get nothing. Mine always starts after 2 or 3 tries though.

Jumping the starter with a screwdriver while the key is in the run position will let you know for sure if it's the starter or something else.

- Justin

[Pampered-Z]

Few things I would also check.

Check that your ground from the battery is tight to the body.

What about the ignition switch itself? Put the jey and turn to the start postion, give it a wiggle, if you have tilt wheel try moving it as well.

Best bet is to get under the car with a volt meter or test light and verify the starter is getting current.

[12secondv6]

Update:
Battery fully charged.
Turn key in ignition and fule pump comes on and fuel lines are full.
Purge, master, nitrous etc all work.
Starter was replaced last weekend.
All fuses checked and are fine.
All relays checked and are fine.
No SES codes

After starter was replaced car started up beautifully several times.

All wires checked and rechecked..
Starter checked and rechecked..
No cuts in wires
Fuel confirmed
Spark confirmed
Battery is fine
I tried all different keys already.... no luck there.

I jiggled shifter back and forth, no luck there.

I have already hooked battery up to a jump box, no difference.

Battery was relocated back under the hood and cut off switch was removed.

I took a wire and wrapped it around the positive side of the starter. I then took my craftsman dig volt meter set the volt metter to V- with the flat line "-" Grouned the other side. Put the positive into the wire (which goes to starter) and I had current reading of 11.7 This was before AND after turning the key in the ignition

I checked the multi meter to the battery and same, 11.7
Starter does nothing at all.
Just changed the starter with a new one.... same thing, no start.

Battery is fine.
Fuel psi is there.
Wiring checked and recehcked.
Starter claims it can be started with a min of 8 volts... I'm at 11.7.

I found the neutral safety switch and attempted to bypass it. I took a wire with male connections on either side, I dissconnected the neatral safety switch and put one end in the brown wire and one in the yellow wire section.
No crank at all.

The neutral safety switch has:
Brown wire (big)
Yellow wire (big)
green wire (small)
Brown wire (small)
Orange wire with black stripe (small)
Black wire with white stripe (small)

I dissconnected it and attached the brown (big) and yellow (big) with a piece of wire with connectors in it... and nothing

As for me cutting wires..... it started up several times after I installed the last starter..... everything worked fine.... I let it sit from sunday to thursday and it would not start up on thursday.

Since it was runing after the rewiring of nitrous I know it is not a cut wire issue.

I got no readings through the neutral safety switch... no volts at all.

[12secondv6]

I don't think I want to just the starter with a screw driver.... used to do that with the topaz... I didn't care about that car... I'm not taking chances with the bird

Ground checked and rechecked

Hammer suggestion done

I jiggled the key in the ignition but I did not try tilting the stering wheel... I will try that.

I hooked up genie's car to jump start the bird... no difference

I need to investigate the ignition contact in the steering column

11.7 volts to starter

New starter does the exact same thing... nothing... no crank.

I need to play around more with the volt meter... I am electrically retarded so I need to have Mr Juice there... he knows this stuff.

Smokin SS.... If you are available and I still can;t get this POS running I may seek your assistance



I just wanna run this thing and spray the snot out of it right away! My fellow damn v6'ers are really stepping it up on me... I need to get into the 11's now

[JL8Jeff]

I had a lot of similar symptoms on one of my 4Runners and in the end it turned out to be the battery was damaged. It was putting out 11.7 volts, would run all the power accessories, headlights were nice and bright, put in a new starter and no difference. Pulled the battery out of the basement from the 69 Z28 that had been sitting for 2+ years and put a good charge on it overnight. Threw it in the truck and hooked it up. Truck fired right up! It's possible that the battery has been damaged and can't provide the amps needed to crank it. See if you can borrow a battery from another vehicle to check and see if that's the problem. You don't have any type of alarm on the car, do you? That might be grounding out and preventing it from even cranking too.

[12secondv6]

I can put the neon batteyr in the bird and try that.... who knows?

s for alarm.... it was completely removed many years ago by a professional

[Little G]

Just a thought...what about the chip in the key? Maybe it went bad? Did you try hot wiring it?

g

[Savage_Messiah]

Originally Posted by Little G

Just a thought...what about the chip in the key? Maybe it went bad? Did you try hot wiring it?

g

...

Originally Posted by 12secondv6

I tried all different keys already.... no luck there.

[12secondv6]

Originally Posted by Little G

Just a thought...what about the chip in the key? Maybe it went bad? Did you try hot wiring it?

g

I have 3 sets... I tried them all... no luck

[turbo96z28]

trace the wiring back from the neutral safety switch.


you should have voltage at the switch.

if there is no voltage there, it could be a problem with the ignition switch (the one located on the lower portion of the steering colomn)

[misterjuice]

could be a leaking flux capacitor

[Tru2Chevy]

Originally Posted by turbo96z28

trace the wiring back from the neutral safety switch.


you should have voltage at the switch.

if there is no voltage there, it could be a problem with the ignition switch (the one located on the lower portion of the steering colomn)

This could very well be the issue...

- Justin

[12secondv6]

Originally Posted by turbo96z28

trace the wiring back from the neutral safety switch.


you should have voltage at the switch.

if there is no voltage there, it could be a problem with the ignition switch (the one located on the lower portion of the steering colomn)

Interesting, thanks.... I shall investigate

[trashman01]

i hate u 12secondv6, ever since i read ur post today, now my t/a wont start up. but i think i kno what it is, another ESC