heads and cam?

[mtg6486]

im going to start a new job soon that will let me make enough $ to start buying sum parts for the ta. i want to do a heads n cam swap for one of the first mods and im looking at the afr 225 heads and no idea on a cam yet. i just have tuning and full exaust done. what do you guys think for a cam and those heads

[foff667]

Talk to Tony Mamo on LS1 tech, im sure he could set you up with a great cam for those heads

[NJSPEEDER]

decide what RPM you want to spin the engine too, then pick a cam that puts that rpm in the optimal part of the operating range, then ick heads to match last.
you can also save yourself a lot of the questions about matching the components adn supporting mods by talking to places shops that have developed head and cam packages already. getting all your parts in one place saves a lot of time, money, and aggrivation.

[Batman]

If it is a street car go with the trickflow 215 heads if you are staying stock displacment. I would go for a cam somewhere in the 228-232 range if you have an auto or a 232-238 range if you have a stick. Make sure you don't cheap out on the little stuff, while it is apart get a good oil pump and timing chain, I would suggest ARP head bolts or studs and a new intake and throttlebody. The AFR's make more peak power but the Trickflows eat them alive in midrange and average HP. I love my set, the car just makes tons of power all acrossed the band, but I could have gotten maybe 15 more peak ponies with AFR. Anyway if it were me I'd go with this set-up. What exactly do you want from the car? Is it a daily driver? Do you want all out power for the track or something that will perform alot better on the street? With a little more info I can help you pick out the right cam.

[mtg6486]

i plan on getting the 90mm fast intake and tb. i was looking at a heads and cam pakage from trick flow with the heads batman suggested it give you just about everything and has 3 options i think i want the one with 515 hp. it would be a street drive car. the other 2 options are 500 and 485
this is the link
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

[Batman]

That is pretty much what I have under the hood although my cam lift and LSA are a little different, and I made about 525 at the flywheel (keep that in mind that the package is rated at the engine from summit, not the wheels) but I am at 11.5:1 compression. It is a very driveable package, I have an auto and am only running a 2500 Stall in it, if it was a standard still I think it would be an awesome set-up. I will warn you that the package makes absolutely stupid amounts of torque and it comes on in a hurry so I would really consider a 12 bolt and chassis mounted torque arm if you don't have them already. I know 3 people who have snapped the tailshafts on their trans with that set-up (all auto's). Just make sure if you go for the big package your car can handle it. If your car is a pre-01 or has high miles you may want to consider a lesser package or be prepared to build a shortblock in the near future. Make sure you don't get over your head for bragging rights of the big numbers.

[mtg6486]

i had planned on doing suspension modifications and possible upgrading the rear. how much can the stock rear handle?

[foff667]

Originally Posted by mtg6486

i had planned on doing suspension modifications and possible upgrading the rear. how much can the stock rear handle?

I've seen them blow on stock m6 LS1's

Auto's can handle a good bit more because the impact isn't as bad.

[mtg6486]

Do you think it can handle 500 horsepower? And does it need fuel system upgrades like the injectors and fuel pump?

[Tru2Chevy]

The stock rear will not live long behind 500 hp, unless you make tires your weak link (as in stick with the cheapest tires you can find to fit a stock 4th gen 16x8 wheel).

for 500 hp, you will most definitely not want to rely on the stock pump and injectors.

- Justin

[j0n]

you should probably just work on bolt-ons for now and learn the car before tearing into the motor. then maybe step up to a moderate cam-only setup before going and getting heads to match it

[mtg6486]

they have a different option of 485 which is stil up there in power but will that also be to much for the stock components and if so what is a safe level of hp for a 98 fbody?

[WayFast84]

Originally Posted by mtg6486

they have a different option of 485 which is stil up there in power but will that also be to much for the stock components and if so what is a safe level of hp for a 98 fbody?

Get rod bolts before any of this..

[ins0mnia24]

Originally Posted by mtg6486

they have a different option of 485 which is stil up there in power but will that also be to much for the stock components and if so what is a safe level of hp for a 98 fbody?

I have a Comp custom grind cam shaft 224/230 that would work really good on the street with a set of heads on your car..
Never been used and still in the box ..

[mtg6486]

the link i have comes with heads cam and just about everything else i would need. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

how much were you asking for the cam

[ins0mnia24]

I wouldnt even worry about it if you are buying that package

[Tru2Chevy]

I'm with Wayfast.....since you have a '98 you should make sure you get good rod bolts on that motor before you think about head/cam packages.

If you are planning on an engine combo that will make anywhere in the neighborhood of 500 horsepower, plan on buying a new rear. Whether you are auto or M6, the 7.5" 10 bolt won't stand up to that kind of power too long.

- Justin

[mtg6486]

so maby i should do the rear first. i no mosers are well known but i have no idea of what type of setup to go with also could someone install that themself or do you need a garage to do it?

[Tru2Chevy]

If you order a whole rear from them, installing it in a driveway is no problem. It's pretty easy to do if you have a friend or two help you, but you can do it yourself if need be. I swapped 10 bolts in my driveway by myself.

- Justin

[WayFast84]

How about starting with this.

Rod Bolts
SFC's
12 bolt with Posi

[johnjzjz]

just a note for your info -- after market rod bolts or block studs for the crankshaft take a different torque to tighten to their spec -- and as such the circle in the rod end or crank saddle squishes and will pinch the bearing - if you do not have the rods re honed as well as a block when installing after market bolts / studs -- now i know for a fact many have done it with out doing that -than when it blows up their is always another reason -- but trust me when you torque the rods to a diff torque they will change the perfect circle they had -- your choice -- jz

[mtg6486]

brand wise whats good and also what are good options 4 street driven veichles?

[BonzoHansen]

Originally Posted by johnjzjz

just a note for your info -- after market rod bolts or block studs for the crankshaft take a different torque to tighten to their spec -- and as such the circle in the rod end or crank saddle squishes and will pinch the bearing - if you do not have the rods re honed as well as a block when installing after market bolts / studs -- now i know for a fact many have done it with out doing that -than when it blows up their is always another reason -- but trust me when you torque the rods to a diff torque they will change the perfect circle they had -- your choice -- jz

So all or nothing?

[j0n]

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

So all or nothing?

A wise man once said...cheap, fast, reliable...

[mtg6486]

now i need more $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ lets see how this job goes. so anybody feel like doin a heads cam and rear install in a couple of months lol