Torque Arm Options

[ar0ck]

So to fix a broken trans mount on my 1995 Z28 M6 H/C car I've decided to go with some form of an after market set up as far as the torque arm location goes.

Here are my two option, most likely they will be UMI products. But which one of these do you think would suit my application the best?

Relocation kit for stock torque arm - $240
This includes an after market cross member that allows you to mount the stock torque arm to it rather than the trans, allows for minimal adjustment

Completely adjustable chassis mounted torque arm - $370
This is a complete kit that mounts the torque arm back at the chassis brace ans is infinitely adjustable

The car has a very healthy heads & cam motor, through a 6-speed, and a 113k mile 10-bolt. I think I have a pretty good suspension going on all around . The idea of the car is one that can hold its own on the twisties and still be able to back up its bark in the straight line.

[deadtrend1]

go with the fully adjustable 370.00 tq arm. Get the dropped one for long tubes also.

oh, and you can pay the extra cash for the ds loop. so its like 400.00 all together for it

[BonzoHansen]

B. Get it off the trans & adjust can come in handy if you lowered it.

[Little G]

Definitely vote for chassis-mounted. One of the best mods I've done.

g

[qwikz28]

alex remember general rule of thumb is as follows: (as i have heard from sam strano)

shorter torque arms for drag racing and full length torque arms for a handling bias

i went with a full length UMI adjustable. it comes with a poly mount and since i don't plan on doing anything more than mild drag racing, its staying on the trans. unless i just get the crossmember that i can attach the TA to.

[Tru2Chevy]

I agree with Jake....get a full length adjustable and get it off the trans. The chassis mount is great if you want to do a lot of drag racing, but if you want to handle, stick with a full length.

- Justin

[JSPERFORMANCE]

$240 for the relocation crossmember
$300 for the adjustable torque arm.

$540 to get another what 18" further? Hey whatever you want....

Making the point of lift further forward is better in drag racing because it will help with weight transfer. I have heard the Strano arguement for the opposite but in a street / strip or road / track car the main thing is to eliminate the weak link. That is the trans mounted pivot in this case. So you really cannot go wrong as long as you accomplish this task.

You will not notice anything on a daily basis that would make the difference in .1 seconds in a quarter or even, I dont know, .5 seconds in a solo course so figure out what fits your budget and driving style before you worry about the minimal differences in a great part or a greater part..