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Old 01-28-2009, 05:48 PM   #1
vipergtx500
 
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Help! Cant Get Knuckles Off!

Im currently attempting the LS1 brake swap and I can't get the stock steering knuckles off the car. I read about using a 3-jaw puller but i can't get it around the knuckle to use it. Does anyone know an easier method to removing it? hammer did not work lol
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Old 01-28-2009, 06:43 PM   #2
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try some heat.........this time of year isnt very friendly when it comes to trying to get bound metal pieces apart
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Old 01-28-2009, 07:02 PM   #3
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k...got the uppers disconnected, basically banged the knuckle in the right spot and it popped right out. Now I can't get the lower one disconnected, tried hammer, and tried pickle fork but it started to pierce the boot so i stopped...any ideas?
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1995 Cherokee Sport 4.0L - Stock...for now

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Old 01-28-2009, 07:20 PM   #4
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go 'rent' the right tool from advance auto. push the ball joint right out.
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

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Old 01-28-2009, 08:36 PM   #5
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i don't wanna remove the ball joints, just the knuckle, and i rented the pitman arm puller (pickle fork) from AZ. I hit it with a hammer while a buddy of mine tried pulling on it and still nothing.
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Old 01-28-2009, 08:40 PM   #6
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no, to pop the bj out of the hole in the spindle w/o resorting to beating the crap out of it with a hammer.

soak it with PB blaster too.
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 01-28-2009, 08:47 PM   #7
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what tool are you refering too, autozone had a Pitman arm puller, and a ball joint puller, both being pickle forks just different sizes.
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K&N CAI, Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, MGW Short Shifter, DMH cutout, UMI STB and SFC's, LS1 Front Brakes, Tune by Madtuner

1995 Cherokee Sport 4.0L - Stock...for now
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Old 01-28-2009, 09:36 PM   #8
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...gave up with the knuckle so i tried to put the upper control arm back on it jus to see and when i went to tighten it the ball join spins and the nut doesn't tighten. Is there a fix for this or do i just have to replace the upper ball joint. If so, what do i have to do, i read something about drilling out the 3 rivets and replacing it, using bolts instead, but do i have to remove the control arm to do this?
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1996 Firebird Formula M6 Black/Ebony
K&N CAI, Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, MGW Short Shifter, DMH cutout, UMI STB and SFC's, LS1 Front Brakes, Tune by Madtuner

1995 Cherokee Sport 4.0L - Stock...for now

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Old 01-28-2009, 10:42 PM   #9
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Im a little lost on it since Ive never done nor looked at the SLA set up of a 4th gen in a long time.

Upper BJ, yes you could drill or air hammer off teh heads of the rivits and bolt in a new one. The new BJ will come with grade 8 nuts and bolts.
As for the lower, again...dont know what it looks like so I couldnt tell you how to remove it.
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Old 01-29-2009, 07:44 AM   #10
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I forget, maybe it's called tie rod puller or something. You might need to reconnect the upper so there is force on the lower, then smack the LCA with a dead blow hammer.


Do you have air tools??
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Vent Windows Forever!

The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 01-29-2009, 09:26 AM   #11
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thats the problem, i cant reconnect the upper because it spins instead of tightens.
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1996 Firebird Formula M6 Black/Ebony
K&N CAI, Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, MGW Short Shifter, DMH cutout, UMI STB and SFC's, LS1 Front Brakes, Tune by Madtuner

1995 Cherokee Sport 4.0L - Stock...for now
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Old 01-29-2009, 09:33 AM   #12
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I've always used a pickle fork to seperate the spindle from the control arms. It will most likely destroy the boot but will be your best option. If you try hitting the top of the ball joint with a hammer you can destroy the threads or mushroom is to much it won't fit through the hole to come out.

I know you don't want to replace the ball joints but you're in there....spend the money to do it now while everything is apart. Upper drill the rivets out and replace with the supplied bolts that come with the new one. Not familiar with the 4th gen setup but I'm guessing you need a ball joint press to remove and reinstall the lower. Very easy to use and makes the job 10x easier. You can usually rent one for like $20 a day. No need to remove the control arms from the car.
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Old 01-29-2009, 06:59 PM   #13
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i got all of it done at meineke cause my friend knows them well, replaced the ball joints too. Didn't bend the brackets of the brake lines in yet, just drove very carefully. Anyone recommend what to do in terms of which lines to use and bending /cutting the bracket
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"Don't Think, Just Replace Opti"

1996 Firebird Formula M6 Black/Ebony
K&N CAI, Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, MGW Short Shifter, DMH cutout, UMI STB and SFC's, LS1 Front Brakes, Tune by Madtuner

1995 Cherokee Sport 4.0L - Stock...for now

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