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Old 03-22-2010, 11:35 PM   #1
IROCZman15
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subframe, floorpan sanding, por-15, sound deadener, carpet

Well, after I had the full S&W racing subframe kit installed in the car I was able to begin the tedious task of redoing the undercoating on the vehicle. I jacked up the car, laid down some plastic on the ground, bought a whole assortment of wire wheels, sanding sheets, wire brushes, etc and got to work. I began by removing a bunch of the rubberized undercoating using a heat-gun and a putty-knife/scraper combination. This took a while and sure was messy. I then got my hand-drill and worked with the different array of wire wheels. I had to rip off all the remaining undercoating, factory paint and primer...so that the metal under most of the car was down to complete bare sheetmetal. Some areas were very difficult to reach. (for this project I concentrated on everything rearward from the firewall and rear of the engine..I did not drop the rear end and did not drop the fuel tank...when I replace the rear end, I will sand and undercoat above it).

photos below show the exposed bare metal under the car. the black bars are the subframe kit.

















after the metal was stripped down, i went to the POR-15 headquarters in Morristown Nj and checked out a bunch of their products. I bought the "marine clean" metal cleaner, the "metal-Ready" phosphate metal prep solution, and a quart of semi-gloss black POR-15 metal undercoating. anywhere this paint is, even if there was rust to begin with... it will never grow; ever. applying this stuff was messy. as it says in the instructions .. if it gets on ur skin, get it off asap. otherwise it wont come off..it has to wear off. i did two complete coats, using a variety of hair and foam brushes. turned out awesome and it is strong too. total cost for the products was under $60, but it will only work correctly if you follow the exact directions.








i also puilled out all the floor drains and whatnot and coated them, then sealed everything up with some RTV.






I also sanded down the interior floorpans a bit and coated them with a different product. I used a similar product to POR-15, but since the interior floor should never see any liquid.. I went with a product I got for free from a mechanic buddy of mine - Hammerite Rust Cap, gloss black - . It worked great. It was thick to brush on, but I can tell it is solid too. Pics are kinda blurry - sorry, but you can get the point.








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Old 03-22-2010, 11:36 PM   #2
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I did a bunch of research online and compared product quality with cost and overall effectiveness when choosing a sound-deadener material for the FLOOR of my car. I will later be doing the inside of the door panels and the rear wheel-well areas another time, but for now I wanted to only tackle the floor. I went with a product called RAAmmatt 60BXT. I got a great deal and was able to cover the entire floor 1 1/2 times. (the 1/2 time is where i doubled up the layers on the transmission tunnel and driveshaft hump because those areas are noisy. Now, let it be clear that I am NOT trying to make this car sound proof with the windows closed because that would be silly. My goal was to use the sound deadener to reduce the road noise, mini squeaks and rattles, and the noise that comes from the rear end gears. This product worked great and was super easy to install. There is really no science to it, just cut a piece, fit it up, when it seems to fit good, peel the material off (to expose the black sticky side) leaving the shiny side up, press on, and rub/press the material down. You can overlap areas and cut it to whatever shape works. You have to think ahead and also cut out holes in the material for anything (bolts, wire clamps, seatbelt holes) that will need to accessed later, but thats easy.
















Since I had the interior out and did the rustproofing, sound-deadener, subframe work..... I had to pull out the original carpet. It was faded from 23 years of use and sun so I gave it to a buddy who needed it for his camaro. I ordered a new passanger compartment carpet from 1A-Auto for a good price. The measurments and curves were spot on. It IS an ACC carpet! Below are pics of the install, which is straightforward, but you have to cut holes in it for the seatbelts, seat mounts, and around the area of the center console. Cutting through the carpet is easy, but cutting through the fabric backing/padding is aggrevating. In some pics the carpet looks grey due to the sunlight or camera flash, but it's actually a solid rich black color. Now that the carpet is in, I was able to toss in the rear seats, neatly run the wires for the sounds system (and install it again), and regroup other wires in the transmission and stereo area to be much neater.
















... now im just waiting on the driver's seat to get a few areas patched so i can put it back in and drive the car all over for the next 6 months
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:55 PM   #3
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MAN have you done it right and covered ALL the bases with this interior. I can see how the magazine article took your ideas and gave its readers an excellent view of how much work goes into a job like this, where 90% of what you have done will never be seen. LOL
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Old 05-27-2015, 07:50 PM   #4
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Retrieving a thread from the dead, but did you use anything to remove the road dirt and grime before you started to clear the under-coating?
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:02 AM   #5
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yup, I started with various spray on degreasers and some aggressive brushes. Then realized that most of the stuff was adhered beyond what chemicals were capable of. (also, the drips of the chemicals got annoying since i was working on the floor with the car on jackstands..and it kept dripping all over me). After about an hour of that I switched to a whole assortment of wire wheels, scuff pads, and wire brushes powered by a hand drill. This did a great job of just buzzing away the factory undercoating, gunk, grime, sediment, etc. it took a LONG time. like days! but it worked great. it still holds up without any imprefections in the coating to this day. The color got slightly slightly faded, but thats fine with me. Its clean, easy to wipe down, and a solid barrier against rust and everything else.
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Old 05-29-2015, 12:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IROCZman15 View Post
yup, I started with various spray on degreasers and some aggressive brushes. Then realized that most of the stuff was adhered beyond what chemicals were capable of. (also, the drips of the chemicals got annoying since i was working on the floor with the car on jackstands..and it kept dripping all over me). After about an hour of that I switched to a whole assortment of wire wheels, scuff pads, and wire brushes powered by a hand drill. This did a great job of just buzzing away the factory undercoating, gunk, grime, sediment, etc. it took a LONG time. like days! but it worked great. it still holds up without any imprefections in the coating to this day. The color got slightly slightly faded, but thats fine with me. Its clean, easy to wipe down, and a solid barrier against rust and everything else.
A heat gun and a putty knife will do a good job too.
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