Suggestions on this cam package

[MyFirstZ]

I am looking to get between 360-380 hp with this set up.
I am looking for a Cam that will give me a better top end and still maintain a torquey low end.
The car is driven about 3 days a week
It will be tuned again once it is all installed

I am looking on your guys thoughts mainly on that specific cam (experiences), or cams that you have tried that had or have sort of the same mods. (mods listed in sig)

Also what other recomendations do you have for me while i am in there. Main reason i am in there is to replace the timing cover gasket, it is sweating/seeping more then when i first got it.

I am going to be installing it at my shop (BMW)
I am using LS1howto.com cam it, on the more technical parts
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

GM LS2 Timing Chain................... 41.99

Texas Speed Torquer v.2 Camshaft...................589.99
232/234, .595"/.598" LSA 113 or 112
PAC Beehive Springs
Texas Speed Hardened Chromoly Pushrods

GM Replacement LS7 Lifters....................139.99

Basic Camshaft Bolt & Gasket Kit .........................53.99
Includes GM Timing Cover Gasket,
GM Timing Cover Seal, GM Water Pump Gaskets
GM Harmonic Balancer Bolt

total = 825.96$

Things debating on getting based based on nessecity.

Porting the MAF and TB
Melling High Pressure Oil Pump, 97+ LS Engines
Ti retainers
Rockers

[KirkEvil]

You should easily meet you HP goals with that cam, power will come in just over 2k rpm.

You also need to get head gaskets and head bolts. I take it you have a valve spring compressor at your shop? I think you should do the ported oil pump while the front cover is off, and get new spark plugs. Factor in the cost of a tune, and all fluids also. A "cam only" swap is not cheap if you dont cut corners, haha.

Larger injectors?

[MyFirstZ]

yeah i forgot to add the injectors if it was needed or not?

i didnt want to take the head off yet. i was going to wait later down the road till i actually go with a bigger cam and change to aftermarket heads to. I am sure you have had a bad experience with the head gaskets after you did a cam once before that is why you are telling me, just wondering why though?

i guess if i take the heads off i will go arp studs now to save later and

what about the edelbrock two piece timing cover so i dont have to do the crank pulley/bolt later ?

iguess my budget will be 1500$ instead of 1000

the plugs are only a few thousand miles old i replace them once a year. But i guess for tuning purposes it might be better to have a fresh set in to get a standard with fresh plugs

[V]

on LS motor, the lifters are under the heads and they need to be removed in order to swap them out

[KirkEvil]

There is a lot of controversy about injector sizes floating around. Some people say you are fine running the stockers at 120% DC for short WOT, others think those people are crazy. I went with 30# svo, which are 36# at ls1 fuel pressure. I figured it gives me room to grow, and I wouldnt have to get re-tuned if I stayed with stock injectors and wanted to upgrade.

I mentioned head gaskets because you had ls7 lifters in your list. You have to remove the heads to install new lifters on LS1s. You should get ARP BOLTS because its difficult to pull the heads with studs without dropping the engine (cowl clearance). If you do not plan to remove the heads, you should pick up some 3/8" dowel rods to hold the lifters up while you install the cam.

The 2 piece timing cover is a waste of money unless you plan to do Chinese fire drill cam swaps. Removing the crank pulley is hardest the first time.

I personally chose to remove the heads during my "cam only" install to avoid lifter problems, install ARP bolts, and 0.040 gaskets to bump compression. My goal was to get as much power as possible with a mid size cam to stay street friendly. I run a 228/232 111 lsa, which should act just like the 232/234 112 lsa. My current SCR is 11.4:1 and I run 93 pump gas without a problem. I had problems only when re-using the cosmetic head gaskets, and torqued them with an uncalibrated torque wrench.

Reusing plugs is up to you. After spending so much on a cam install I didnt want to cause problems because I got cheap on $15 plugs. This was a thread on Tech about cam swap prices...

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...cam-swaps.html

[MyFirstZ]

thanks for that info, now i can do a more researched parts list and make a budget around it

[Slow-V6]

Originally Posted by MyFirstZ

i guess if i take the heads off i will go arp studs now to save later and

the plugs are only a few thousand miles old i replace them once a year. But i guess for tuning purposes it might be better to have a fresh set in to get a standard with fresh plugs

Are you planning of pulling the heads off in the future? If not then there really isnt a need for the ARP studs. The ARP bolts or even stock Head bolts would be fine to use.


Change the plugs while your there. Your probably going to remove the plugs when you pull the heads off anyways. Might even have to gap them differently with a aftermarket camshaft. I know I did in my V6 when I did my motor build.

[MyFirstZ]

yeah, more likely within the few years i plan on doing a significant amount of work but this is all that i can really afford right now with school loans, credit card bills, etc. . . .

[KirkEvil]

You should consider picking up a pushrod length checker ($20) depending on how far you plan to go. Different thickness head gaskets, ls7 lifters have a shorter cup, and different cam lobe base circle can change the length to achieve proper preload. TSP might be able to recommend you the proper length based on your plans.

I also noticed the prices in your original post are a little high. IMO, TSP has good package deals for cams and valvetrain, but other parts and shipping are over priced. You can piece together a kit to drop the cost from the timing chain, gaskets, and lifters from other vendors.

[MyFirstZ]

those prices are from TSP lol, But for the average stuff like the gaskets i am going to go over to my local chevy dealer since he gives me tremondous(SP) breaks on anything, so i am going to shop around that was jsut a few of the things i found.

I really liked that thinner head gasket to raise compression so there is still more i got to look into just need a few days since i have been slammed with errands and work and just stuff going on.

[KirkEvil]

Going to a 0.040 head gasket with stock, unmilled 241 casting heads (67cc) would only bump your SCR from 10.38:1 to 10.68:1. I dont want to mislead you with the 11.4:1 SCR I posted earlier with my milled heads (62cc, 0.040 gasket).

[MyFirstZ]

ahh, well you succeded in the misleading lol

thinking i might try and find a set of 243's get them checked with whatever that **** they (zy. . something) use to check for cracks, milled so i dont have to worry about warpage and maybe even PP them.

ps thanks for taking your time out to help me i appreciate this a whole lot

[KirkEvil]

No problem with the help. Stock 243 castings have 64cc chambers fyi. NJ346, a member on here, installed a 232/234 112 lsa cam with stock 243 heads and made 408 hp/385 tq in an m6 car IIRC. You could probably PM him for more specific info if thats the combo you're going for.

[MyFirstZ]

that sounds right up my alley. 243 heads do not seem like they are that hard to come by either.

[MyFirstZ]

speaking of 243's just found a set for 200, complete with yellow springs on ls1tech for 200$ in north jersey. . . wonder if it is anyone on here

Does that sounds like a good price to you guys ?