Trans is in the nova - NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds

Lt1_8U · 01-08-2013, 12:18 AM

Well the mock up portion. I need to purchase a flywheel still for my 2 piece rear main seal engine. So I decided I'd throw it in, do my cutting and set my crossmember up. More pics tomorrow!

townsend · 01-08-2013, 12:46 AM

please post up what/where you got a flywheel for a 2-piece block to work with it! im starting to gather parts to do this to my truck, and im having a hard time finding a flywheel that will work.

Lt1_8U · 01-08-2013, 05:21 AM

There are three that I know of. I have to find my part numbers but they all are around 420.00. Yeah it blows... Ram,center force and I think hays make them. Ill find them and shoot you a pm

BonzoHansen · 01-08-2013, 07:34 AM

$420? LT1 style T56?

More pics!

WildBillyT · 01-08-2013, 08:21 AM

Race ya to the finish line. LOL. I just finished my tunnel patch yesterday.

All joking aside, looks good! Appears that you haven't cut yet though?

Lt1_8U · 01-08-2013, 09:16 AM

Hahaha nice! How's it line up in there with the bellhousing? I don't think I need to cut. I have the trans as high as it can go without pushing against the floor. At this height the poly mount on the trans is about an inch higher than the crossmember. I will buy a digital protractor to check my driveline angle though.

That picture is before I trimmed the shifter hole, so it's not sitting up all the way.

Lt1_8U · 01-08-2013, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

$420? LT1 style T56?

More pics!

Yepp, out of bills trans am! It sucks. Just because the pre 87(or 86) blocks had a different bolt pattern on the crank. All the two piece rear main seal engines need this flywheel for the t56

WildBillyT · 01-08-2013, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lt1_8U

Hahaha nice! How's it line up in there with the bellhousing? I don't think I need to cut. I have the trans as high as it can go without pushing against the floor. At this height the poly mount on the trans is about an inch higher than the crossmember. I will buy a digital protractor to check my driveline angle though.

That picture is before I trimmed the shifter hole, so it's not sitting up all the way.

Didn't want to hijack your thread with my own swap too much

I will say this. After dealing with the ill-fitting bellhousing to trans situation, everything else has fit together perfectly and the mechanical parts are easier to set up than the Muncie was.

As far as I'm concerned, this project is 90% metalwork and 10% mechanicals.

I had to cut a lot, but that's what is necessary for a T56 Mag or an LS1 T56. For some reason the LT trans seems to fit better. Probably that shallower bellhousing and shorter input shaft. Just check your driveline angle as I've seen LT T56 guys botch that and then have to chase vibrations on the highway.

Before cutting, this is what my trans mount looked like:

And that was with the trans pressing up against the floor as far as it would go. Needed another 1-1.5" of space.

And FYI, the stock floor pan/tunnel thickness is between 20-22 gauge steel. I was told the wrong thing and used 16ga for my new tunnel which is a lot harder to work with. Although the floor is crazy stiff at this point...LOL.

Lt1_8U · 01-08-2013, 09:38 AM

Keep posting! It fits the title haha. Oh ok, I'm glad I don't need to cut it lol haha take some pics of the floor.

BonzoHansen · 01-08-2013, 09:55 AM

Quote:

I had to cut a lot, but that's what is necessary for a T56 Mag or an LS1 T56. For some reason the LT trans seems to fit better. Probably that shallower bellhousing and shorter input shaft. Just check your driveline angle as I've seen LT T56 guys botch that and then have to chase vibrations on the highway.

I agree with all that!

WBT it looks like your shifter came right through that brace! I have a similar brace i cut about half way through on the Z.

Lt1_8U what crossmember are you using?

WildBillyT · 01-08-2013, 10:30 AM

That brace?

Yeah, it had to completely go in my case. I could have saved maybe 1/4" of it or so but it was not worth it as that adds no strength.

I am not 100% sure I need to put it (or something like it) back since my "mistake" used steel that's just as thick (or thicker) as the brace for the entire tunnel.

Lt1_8U · 01-08-2013, 10:51 AM

I had the same issue with that brace, I cut it and it left about a 1/4 of it. I actually bought the crossmember from bill.

WildBillyT · 01-08-2013, 10:55 AM

It is an early Fat Man Fab crossmember I believe.

Lt1_8U · 01-08-2013, 11:25 AM

townsend · 01-08-2013, 11:38 AM

was hoping for cheaper....crap. thanks though. looks really good guys!

Lt1_8U · 01-08-2013, 11:42 AM

Thanks! Me too haha. Ram part number is 2555, center force is 700107

chrisfrom nj · 01-08-2013, 05:20 PM

Looks great jim

Lt1_8U · 01-09-2013, 07:30 AM

Thanks man

maroman88 · 01-09-2013, 02:53 PM

makin good progress!

Lt1_8U · 01-09-2013, 08:54 PM

Thanks man, just building up the funds for the flywheel and little stuff.

Featherburner · 01-09-2013, 09:01 PM

Looks good. Are you going with an aluminum or a steel flywheel?

Lt1_8U · 01-09-2013, 10:47 PM

Thanks, I think I'm going with the aluminum ram flywheel. Are there an cons to an aluminum one? I was thinking it would be better because its lighter and its simar in price.

BonzoHansen · 01-09-2013, 11:17 PM

What rear gears are you running?

Lt1_8U · 01-10-2013, 12:20 AM

Right now the rear that's in the car has 3.55s but I want to do 4.11a or 4.56s. I really liked the 4.56 in my last car

WildBillyT · 01-10-2013, 06:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lt1_8U

Thanks, I think I'm going with the aluminum ram flywheel. Are there an cons to an aluminum one? I was thinking it would be better because its lighter and its simar in price.

Jim,

This is not one of those cases where lighter always equals better. A lighter flywheel stores less energy so it will take a little more to get the car going. A heavy flywheel will rev slower but will not lose as much on launch.